Category: Western Ghats

Since the Western ghats started to allure me like anything, I never said no to any chance to go and explore those mountains. I wanted to complete some few treks in the Western ghats before the end of 2017. Trekking Baba Budangiri hills, Kodachadri hills and Chokramudi hills were some of them. And finally, the Kumara Parvatha trek happened in the last month of the year.

The role Western ghats plays in the life and culture of people living here was very significant, which point out the need to protect them. The exclusive biodiversity of these mountains are very delicate, it has to be taken care very seriously. More than a  trek, each trail was a learning experience for me. Hope I can explore more and tell you many interesting stories this year also.

I came to know about Kumara Parvatha trek from one of my colleagues. Since then, I was waiting for the perfect time to do the trek. Tried to trek Kumara Parvatha during the monsoons, but the officials were not allowing that time. So waited for the monsoon to get over.

Kumara Parvatha trek is one of the most known treks in the Western Ghats, very famous in the internet and social media these days. Even though it is a bit difficult for the amateurs, many people come here, especially during the weekends. Many adventure companies organise Kumara Parvatha trek, mostly from Bangalore.

The trekking can be done from two sides, from Somwarpet and from Kukke Subramanya. So we decided to ascend through one trail and descend through the other, to not miss anything on the way. Came to know that, the entry through Somwarpet side is comparatively easy and less crowded. The trail starting from the other side, Kukke Subramanya is long and very steep. So we picked Somwarpet as our starting point, did all the bus and train bookings from Chennai to reach Somwarpet on a Saturday morning.

The villages of Karnataka on the Western Ghats are very beautiful. Somwarpet is not an exception. It is serene and colourful. We began our walk from Beedehalli exactly, entered to the Pushpagiri forest region after taking tickets from the forest check post. A couple of other groups were also on the trail. The trail goes through forest initially and later as we go up, the forest gave way to tall grasses. There are boards on the trail, indicating the direction and the distance to the top. Since we were walking through the forest, the sun was not a problem. Few streams on the way provide drinking water. The difficult part of this trail was two places where we have to climb steep rocks. It was little tricky, and some people will find it difficult. Other than that, this trail can be completed without much effort.

We reached the top of Kumara Parvatha after a 4-hour hike. There were other groups also, who came from the other side. Spend some time at the top, the view from there was amazing. We had to come down fast to reach the camping site before it gets dark. On the way, there are few other view points. The sunset from Shesha Parvatha, another peak on the trail, is magical.  We had to walk another 7 km to reach the base. It was getting dark slowly. All started to return immediately after sunset. The trail we were taking was very steep, coming down was not easy. It took us more time to reach the base camp.

We pitched our tents for the night, had our dinner from the Bhattaru mane and slept tired because of the long walk. The next day, started walking down to Kukke Subramanya early in the morning.

How to start Kumara Parvatha trek

As I said earlier, there are two trails for Kumara Parvatha trek. The choice is yours, the trail from Beedehalli side is easier compared to the trail from Kukke Subramanya side. From both entrances, you have to pay 350 INR ( Indians) and 1000 INR (foreigners). Once you enter the forest, you have to exit any of the checkpoint same day itself. The officers will be keeping a record of those who entered the forest.

To reach Beedehalli, catch a bus which goes via Somwarpet. I took a Madikeri (Coorg) bus from Banglore which dropped me in Somwarpet by around 5.30 morning. From Somwarpet, you can catch the very first bus to Beedehalli at around 7.30 AM from the private bus stand which is very near to KSRTC bus stand.

The bus will drop you at its last stop, from where you have to walk about an hour to reach the Pushpagiri forest range check post. Taxis are also available from Somwarpet which will drop you very nearer to the check post. It will save some time.

If starting from the other side, Kukke Subramanya, buses are available from Banglore and other major cities of Karnataka. Kukke Subramanya is a temple town. From Kukke, the entrance to the trail is about 1 km. It will take about 15 mins walk to reach there. You have to trek about 7 km from the entrance to reach the forest check post. The procedure is same there also. The trail goes through the forest. From the check post, Kumara Parvatha is another 7 km, which makes total 14 km. So based on convenience, you can start from any of the entry points.

Accommodation during Kumara Parvatha trek

Due to the increase in the number of people coming for the trek, forest officers are not permitting tenting or camping nowadays. The guards won’t allow you to carry tents after the check post. There are camping areas near the forest check post.

Another option for stay during Kumara Parvatha trek is the “Bhattara mane” ( temple priest’s house). You will get a place to sleep by advance booking. Food is also available there. The chances to find a room is very less during weekends. So is better to carry tents. “Bhattaru mane” and forest office are the only options if you need to use the toilet.

Few things to know

People trek to Kumara Parvatha in different ways. Like we did, you can start from Beedehalli, descend through the other side on the same day and spend the night in the camp, trek back to Kukke Subramanya next day. It will take two days.

The next option is starting from the Kukke side, trek up to forest check post first day, camp there for the night, trek again up to Kumara Parvatha and come back to the camp, then back to Kukke on the next day. This will be less difficult but takes three days.

You can trek up to Kumara Parvatha and come back to camp for the night on the same day also. In this case, the total distance to cover will be 21 km, it will be little painful for your muscles.

During weekends and other holidays, the camping ground will be super crowded. So if you are late to reach back to the camp from the top, the chances to find a proper place to pitch tents are minimum.

It is always better to start your descend as early as possible. Compared to climbing up, coming down is more difficult and take more time. Walking in the night is not advisable.

Carry your water bottle, there are few streams on the way to collect water. You have to burn more energy during the trek, so carry enough energy bars or food.

Other than Kumara Parvatha, the trail has one more peak called Shesha Parvatha and few view points. The views from the top will definitely make you feel happy.

In a way, trekking is a challenge we put ourselves against our own body and mind. It is about understanding our physical and emotional strength. The positive feel of completing a trek is definitely going to lift up our spirits. You feel more confident. And moreover, trekking is an opportunity to see this beautiful earth. It helps to create a commitment towards our mother nature. So use the time you spend outdoors for understanding ourself as a part of this whole universe,  make a connection with our surroundings and be grateful for everything we have.

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The monsoons were pouring down heavily in the southern states this time. The South West monsoon usually retreats by the end of September. I was looking forward to a trek in the rain before it ends. The monsoon in the Western Ghats is something I like the most, the rain is so refreshing and liberating. It didn’t take much time to decide a trek to Kodachadri hills. I started my journey, along with a friend from Chennai in an afternoon train towards Banglore where I had booked an overnight bus to Kudachadri.

I have to get down at a place called Nittur. The trek to Kodachadri starts from here. It was a drizzling morning. The raindrops were soft like snow. It kept on falling as it ever exists, disturbing no one. Nittur is a small village between Shimoga and Kollur. Got a guide immediately. Trekking on our own was the plan but from Nittur, people told it will be a bit difficult to find the trails. Our guide was a nice person, ran immediately to his house to take an umbrella and he was ready to go. We bought some sniffing powder to prevent leeches, as per our guide’s instruction and started our trek to Kodachadri peak.

We took a small trail from the main road and began walking. There were houses on both sides, paddy fields, streams running all around them. It began to rain little later, our guide unfolded his umbrella and walked in front. I followed him, embraced by the rain.

After a while, our trail merged with the road that goes to Kodachadri. For a short distance, we have to walk by the road. Our guide started to talk, about the trek and different trails, then his stories. He told about a group who got lost in the forest during the trek to Kodachadri peak a few years back. There is an area in the forest, finding the correct trail is very difficult once we go inside, he told. He was one among those who went to search a group who were lost in the forest. I felt little difficult to believe his story completely, but I didn’t want to show the doubts on my face. He lead us very confidently as a person who knows these mountains very well.

The walk continued for about an hour, came across many small villages. The road was unpaved. We gradually entered into the forest. Leeches started to crawl on my legs. It was little scary in the beginning but later became used to it. The sneezing powder was effective. Most of us are a bit scared about leeches, one of the reasons why we are little hesitant to go into forests or trek in rain. But I felt they are much harmless compared to the mosquitoes, which we are ready to tolerate in the cities.

We reached a small house, Hidlumane ( “mane” in Kannada means house). Two forest officers were sitting there, gave us the permission to enter the forest after paying an entry fee. We joined some other groups from there. From Hidlumane, the trek continued towards Hidlumane falls. We were walking through the forest, the trails were little slippery.  Our guide led us to the waterfalls, more leeches on my legs. Before Hidlumane falls, there are other two waterfalls. They don’t have any names it seems, but they looked pretty with full water after the heavy monsoon rains.

From the waterfall, the trek is a steep climb through the forest. It rained heavily, hornbills welcomed the rain from the biggest trees. The streams were full. Water dripping from the trees made the sound of the forest more enchanting. During the rains, the forest has a different shade of green. It looked fresh everywhere. Whenever the rain stops for a while, the fog starts to crawl up between the trees to the hills. The forests gave way to grasslands as we climbed higher.

Once again, we met the road, which soon ended in front of a temple. A trail goes to the top of the Kodachadri hills by the side of the temple. There were many jeeps waiting for the those who went up to the top. Our guide took us to the government guest house. The caretaker of the guest house informed that we had to wait till 4.30 evening to get confirmation about the rooms. He assured us a place to sleep anyway. The guest house was a bit spooky. It was not that much well maintained. Water leaked through the roof at some places. The window panes broken, walls turned green with the moist. The air was damp inside but we found little warmth in a corner.

The rain showed no interest to cease. The fog made it hard to see anything, so we decided to wait.  People began to leave, it was evening then and started to get dark. There were only a few people staying in the guest house for the night.

The next day morning was calm, the rain stopped finally. As soon as I woke up, went outside to see the sunrise. Trekked to the top of the Kodachadri peak. It was fog everywhere, couldn’t see the sunrise but a beautiful morning.

When I was about to come back from the top, met the group who stayed with us in the guest house. They were hiking to Chitramoola, a cave temple located on the other side. It is believed that the sage Sri Shankaracharya meditated in this cave for about one year. I joined them. It was a trek down to the opposite side of the hill. We entered a thick forest, the trail was very steep. Leeches were very happy to see some people at their place finally. Walked down for about 30 minutes and heard sounds of a waterfall nearby. We followed the sound, the cave was behind the falls.

Sitting inside the cave, in front of the Shiva Linga, my thoughts went back to the time when Shankaracharya meditated here in the middle of the jungle alone.

Trek to Kodachadri hills: Few things to know

• There are three main trekking routes to reach Kodachadri. The trek to Kodachadri from Nittur is a 10 km trail and a moderate one.
• Camping is not allowed in Kodachadri.
• Nittur is a small town on the way to Kollur. You can get down at Nittur if coming from Banglore.
• You will easily get guides from Nittur itself, they will approach immediately when you get down there. They normally charge INR 600.
• It is better to carry something to prevent leeches. Tobacco and salt are very effective. The sneezing powder also works well. I have seen some spraying Volini to remove leeches (but it kills them).
• Carry enough water and some food, you won’t find any shops on the way.
• It is better to carry some plastic bags to keep your phone and other electronics, especially during rain time.
• I advise to carry a small bag, the trek is very steep and it will be difficult with a heavy bag.
• Though it is a moderate trek, the trails will become slippery during rain and trekking will be difficult.
• Once you reach the end of the road in Kodachadri, you can find the government guest house nearby
• You won’t find it difficult to get a room but sometimes there will be advance booking. You can book the guest house in advance from Hosanagara. If not booked, you have to wait till evening.
• You may find the guest house little uncomfortable. It is the best option for accommodation if you can adjust for a night. And an experience too.
• The guest house will provide food also.
• You will also get accommodation in the temple priest’s house with simple food
• On top of Kodachadri, there are many trails. Each towards different places where you can get the best view of sunset and sunrise.
• The trail to Chitramoola can be found behind the Shankaracharya temple at the top. It is a steep trail and a little tricky. Only a few people opt for the trek to Chitramoola.
• To reach back to Nittur, you can take the same trail or walk the jeep route or can take any jeep going back. They will charge about INR 250 per person to drop in Nittur. The ride in jeep is an adventure.
• Taxis are available from Nittur if you don’t prefer the trek to Kodachadri. Also, you can take taxi up to Hidlumane and continue the trek from there.
• Local buses are available from Nittur towards Kollur. Kollur is a well-known temple town. Karnataka government and private bus companies have services from Kollur to most of the cities like Bangalore, Mangalore, Chennai etc.

Hope you got enough information about the trek to Kodachadri hills. Make time to continue the trek to Chitramoola. I didn’t write much about Chitramoola, that was intentional. Felt it is unfair to spoil the thrill of your experience. 

Please join together to keep our trails clean and protect the nature. Be a little conscious not to put anything like plastic bags, snack covers or papers on the trails.

Read about another beautiful trek to Baba Budangiri in Chikmagalur, Karnataka.

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Chikmagalur is undoubtedly beautiful and a much less explored hill station in South India. Unlike many other commercialized hill stations in South India like Ooty or Kodaikanal, where it is very tiresome to find a place peaceful and without any buildings hindering our view; Chikmagalur is much better. This place is the major center of the coffee plantation in India.

Mullayanagiri, one of the highest in the Western Ghats is a major attraction here. But this time I ended up in another place, called Baba Budangiri, another mountain here which is only little shorter than Mullayanagiri. This place has a kind of mysticism attached to it. There are many stories related to Baba Budangiri like that of the saint who brought seven coffee seeds here for the first time from the city of Mocha.

So I had a long weekend, so with two of my friends, decided for a road trip from Chennai and it ended up in Chikmagalur. It was almost evening when we reached there, so tired and were looking for a place to stay. A cheap accommodation is what we were looking. Dialled many homestay numbers we got from the roadside advertising boards but didn’t get any positive response. Either they were full or couldn’t afford our pockets. Then, someone told that we can find more stay options in Baba Budangiri.

The road to Baba Budangiri is a climb and the condition was just not bad. It was getting dark, at one point the road became completely invisible due to heavy fog. On the way, saw a small village with few shops and we asked for any place to stay. Initially, they suggested some homestays which are quite expensive. When we told about our low budget, one person asked us to go to the dargah at Baba Budangiri top.

The fog was getting thicker on the way, it was pitch dark on both sides.  Reached Baba Budangiri finally, there were few people on the streets. I came to know many things about this place once I reached there. The dargah is a famous pilgrim center related to a Sufi saint from the middle east, known to a direct disciple of Prophet Mohammed. Pilgrims visit here throughout the year. There were few shops (most of them selling offerings to the shrine), a couple of tea shops and a restaurant.

A person showed us the cottage, run by the dargah to provide accommodation for pilgrims.  They are single rooms with an attached verandah. We were very happy with the rent and said okay immediately.

Early morning, started our hike. There were many roads going in different directions. We asked one person about which one to take. All are good trails and take whichever you want, that was the reply. We picked up a trail which goes to a waterfall. It goes almost parallel with the road. People have not yet started to come, so it was peaceful. The meadows are beautiful, green and wet. We can have a good view of the surrounding areas. There were many small flowers of different colors which took most of my time during the hike. The clouds, dark, were ready to bring the monsoon. I was expecting a rain.

The trail leads to the Manikyadhara waterfall, where there is a small shrine of another Sufi saint. The trail we were taking seemed to be the one pilgrims used before when there was no road. Found thick threads tied to the branches of most of the trees on the way. The belief is that tying threads will fulfill our prayers.

Later, vehicles started to appear on the roads, so kept a distance from them, took the trails which go far away from the roaring engines. I was completely dissolved in the beauty of this place. We got a friend, a dog was accompanying us from the beginning. He came with us till the waterfall and decided to take rest there.

The waterfall was crowded, not a place I wish to be. The way how some people coming to such places behaves is completely unacceptable for a person like me. The plastic they throw and the loud noise they make are disturbing. We need to learn a lot about respecting nature and our fellow travelers. Soon we left that chaos and went to look for a place far away from the crowd. And indeed we found it.

The valley and the mountains nearby were magnificent and enchanting. Soon we found out a trail that goes down to the valley and to a place which gives spectacular views. It was peaceful. We can see Mullayanagiri hills on the opposite side, there is a trail going from Bada Budangiri up to Mullayanagiri. 

Baba Budangiri can be a religious place, but if you look beyond, you can definitely find so many amazing things out here. The trails are not difficult, you can walk over the mountains as much you want. The wild orchids are beautiful here, don’t miss them.

Few things to know about Baba Budangiri trek;

1. Baba Budangiri is about 40 km from Chikmagalur town.
2. Buses are there up to the dargah but very rare, the first bus will start from 7 AM from the Chikmagalur bus station. I would suggest not to rely on buses since the timing is not consistent. The best way to reach Baba Budangiri is by hiring a taxi
3. You will find many homestays and accommodations on the way up to the dargah, either you can stay there or chose rooms near dargah.
4. The stay in dargah is very cheap, rent is INR 300 for one night. Need to pay extra INR 80 for a set of mattress, pillow and blanket. It is a good option who wishes to travel cheap and a better way to understand what this place is all about.
5. Ask for Mr. Ragu, to get the accommodations.
6. There are several trekking trails all over this place and all are good. So it is your call.
7. There are few shops near dargah, you will get basic things there.
8. If you follow the road up, you can reach the Manikyadhara waterfalls and trek to Mullayanagari peak.
9. The Manikyadhara waterfall which is about 4 km from dargah. It will take around 90 minutes to reach there if you are hiking at a decent pace.
10. It is better to reach the waterfall as early as possible to avoid the crowd.
11. There are few shops and tea stalls near the waterfall also.
12. There are many view points and many waterfalls on the way between Chikmagalur and Baba Budangiri.
13. You can also try staying in any homestays inside coffee plantations.

So have a nice time in Chikmagalur. Explore as much as possible and make good memories. Don’t forget to keep the place clean and pure. Don’t litter the trails, keep a bag with you to carry back the plastics. Small things we do today can change the future.

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Read about more destinations in the Western Ghats.

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