Coorg is an easy weekend destination if you are anywhere in the south of India. The beauty of Western ghats and the aroma of coffee plantations are those which you can expect minimum from Coorg ( or Kodagu). Situated in Karnataka state, this region has a unique culture that distinguishes it from other part. The people of Coorg are called Kodavas. Food, language, folklore are all different. So more than the geography it offers, if you try to explore the cultural aspects of this region, the journey of yours will be more meaningful and memorable.
Its been very long since I wrote something on this website. Reasons are many. Like me, you would also be observing the changes in the digital space these days. We lost our ability to concentrate for a longer time span and short video contents are the most selling item in the market now. Somewhere, I also thought writing (genuine) is dead on the internet. But then one day, I was like: there will be people looking for experiences like me and I have to share with them mine.
Drive to the Biruga village in Coorg
This post is about my drive from Bangalore to a village called Biruga in Coorg.
This is not my first time in Coorg, also I have seen most of the must visit places around. So I choose a village where I can experience the unspoiled side of Coorg.
Me and Ankita started early in the morning from Bangalore. It was a 250km journey. First Mysore, then Gonikuppal and Biruga. The route was simple and straight. If you have been to Sakleshpur or Coorg before, you can expect what you see on the way. Roads are so scenic.
Once we crossed Gonikoppal, we entered the rural side. Driving through the roads was beautiful. We reached Biruga and entered the property of our home stay. The monsoons have given the place an extra shade of green. The mountains of Western ghats were standing tall in the backdrop.
Options to stay in Biruga
As I said, Biruga is a small village. You can find a few homestays here. Our homestay was located in a very scenic location. There was a stream going through the property. A small hike through the forest from the homestay, we will reach a beautiful waterfall. You can see lot of birds including hornbills around the property.
Good thing about homestays are the food, you will get a taste of the Coorg cuisine.
One way to understand a culture is to understand the food they eat.
The owner of the stay told us many things about the Kodava culture and the cuisine. They were very peculiar about introducing their cuisine to the guests. The pork preparations of the Kodavas are very famous. Never miss this when you are in Coorg.
There is not much things to do here. I know if you are reading this, you will be a person who needs to find some peace wherever you go. You can put a chair outside and look at the mountains, you can walk upto the edge of forest and observe the flora and fauna, you can have a dip in the stream, that’s all the things to do here.
Coorg food is a never miss
The next day in Madikeri, we were still searching for food and ended up in the famous “Coorg cuisine” restaurant. Also tried some more dishes from the restaurant “ Taste of Coorg”
I can give you an idea of what dishes to try when you are in Coorg. Go for Kadambuttu, Neer Dosa and Akki roti. And try all the pork preparations they offer. Vegetarians can look for dishes made with Bamboo shoots.
The local coffee here is worth a try.
Coming to the tourism perspective, I saw boards mentioning about the over-tourism and asking tourists not to visit Coorg often. I am no one to say anything about what people are facing there because of over tourism. Coorg also became like every other tourist place, just like how we say the world is turning into a single global village. The uniqueness of every place is under threat by this mass commercialisation. And I hate this.
What if I tell you that the property which we stayed at doesn’t have any online booking facility. The homestay doesn’t have electricity either. I saw the owner himself picking a plastic cover from the forest while we were hiking up to a waterfall. That is the kind of business model which I like to choose as a consumer.
Coorg is blessed with beautiful waterfalls
What all you can do in Coorg?
There are many waterfalls and trekking trails in Coorg. I don’t think it is necessary to put it here since internet is full of such contents. Choose those which satisfies your need and plan your day.
Coorg can be your next easy destination if you are in Banglore. A drive of 6 hrs is enough to reach there. Never hesitate to go again if you have already visited this place before. You will find many unique places like Biruga. Even the drive through the region is something worth trying. I would suggest you to put some effort to know about the Kodava culture.
During monsoons, this region will be more beautiful. Coorg is definitely a place if you enjoy rain.
This trek was after quite a long time, obviously due to COVID-19.
Started from Chennai to Munnar in a private bus, Ankita was also with me.
Before starting the trek, we have to do some bookings. I will get straight into it now.
Previously, anyone could have trekked Meesapulimala peak, there were a lot of private companies arranging the trek. But as far as I know, things have changed. You can only trek to Meesapulimala with the permission of Kerala Forest department. The trek is supervised by the forest department officials. Not a big deal – all you need is to book your slot prior to reaching Munnar.
Meesapulimala Forest department base camp
How to book Meesapulimala trek
So go to the website: munnar.kfdcecotourism.com , you can easily book the trekking package according to your preferred time and the luxury of stay you are expecting. Both tenting as well as cottages are available for the night. The reporting time is around 2.30 PM, you need to be physically present at the Forest Department office in Munnar. Once you call them after online booking, you will get the details and location of the office.
Meesapulimala trek: My experience
We reached the Forest Department office, it was raining most of the time that day in Munnar. A jeep from there will take us to the Base camp of Meesapulimala trek. We have chosen tents for the night stay, if you are staying at the cottage, the jeep will take you further 8km up. From Munnar to Base camp, you need to pay 2000 INR. You can form a group from the office and share the expense also.
What happened in our case was, I knew some of my friends were coming on the day for this trek. We didn’t plan this trek together. So there were 5 people in the jeep.
The day was cloudy and rainy, it got dark by the time we reached the camp. The camp was beautifully lit and facilities available were really good. You can expect leeches and be prepared for that. Keep some salt or any leech repellent with you.
The trek starts the next morning at 5.30. There is a sun-rise point on the way. The officers will give all the necessary instructions the day before. There will be a guide with us on the trek. Since there was a forecast for rain on that day, we had already kept aside the idea of sunrise. But anyway, we started our trek on time, after nice hot tea from the camp.
Here we go..
The trek starts from the cottages at Rhodo Valley. You can either walk from the Base camp to the cottage or ask the jeep driver to drop you. I think you can skip walking this part since it is a 3-4 km road. Anyway it’s your choice. You need to pay some extra money for the jeep.
It was drizzling and windy. The trek was amazing in every sense. Really enjoyed walking over the rolling hills. The flora is something which can keep you awestruck. One side trek will take almost 3 hours. On the way up, it was mostly foggy, the views were hidden from us. But the fog cleared on the way down. At the top of Meesapulimala, we couldn’t stand for more time due to heavy chill winds. We took a different route on the way back. Since the fog had cleared later, the landscape was amazing.
The Shola grasslands
Meesapulimala is about 2600 meters above sea level. The vegetation is different from what we see in other part of the western ghats. Most of the area is covered with shola forests. You can also see a lot of Rhododendrons on the way. Once these rhododendrons flower, it gives a different feel for the trek. Sometimes, you can see Nilgiri Tahrs roaming in those grasslands (we saw one..!!!).
I am not spoiling the thrill of the trek by describing each and everything, covered most of the essential details for the trek.
Few important things to remember
Meesapulimala trek is through the reserved forest. They are called reserved for a reason. The flora and fauna in this area is very sensitive. We should not do anything which causes harm to them. So strictly, no plastics and no loud music.
Meesapulimala is a moderate trek. Since the altitude is high, the oxygen level is comparatively less. There can be difficulty for breathing. So don’t exert too much, just relax and trek in your own pace.
You have to deal with leeches, if you are coming in the rainy season.
The facilities in the base camp are very good considering the remoteness of the place. Food is also pretty good. But don’t expect any luxury, demanding such unacceptable things will be idiotic.
The jeep cost to and from base camp to Munnar is around 2000 INR. If you form a group, can share the expense.
The tariffs for different accommodations are available in the KFDC-Munnar website.
Let me know your thoughts in the comment section.
Also, gratitude to my friend JIGS JAYATHILAKAN for the pictures.
Finally the uncertainties with COVID-19 pandemic is gradually fading away. Travel restrictions are easing up and flights resumed their operations. And few Indian states opened their destinations for visitors. Like everyone, I was staying home for almost 7 months, wanted to go somewhere.
Some say, we don’t usually value whatever closer to us. So whenever I think of travelling, Goa was not a choice. But I wish to visit there during monsoon once. This time, Goa was one among the Indian state which was open for visitors.
After mulling on the idea of Goa for quite some time, the plan was made.
Ride to South Goa
From Panjim, we rented out a Vespa and started to Agonda. We mean me and my girlfriend. The short 65km ride to Agonda will give us an idea of what Goa really is. It was a pleasant day, we rode through a bunch of Goan towns and villages. Nargoa, Nuvem, Margao, Navelim, Chinchinm, Betul are few places on the way. Most of these tittle towns have beautiful centuries old churches which you can see on the way.
The old portugese influenced houses were something that kept my eyes busy throughout the journey. Small rivulets, coconut trees, small hills and vast cashew estates – that was the side of Goa I was looking for.
My suggestion would be to explore South Goa in a two-wheeler.
Agonda beach, favourite in South Goa
In Agonda, our stay was near the beach and it was a cool property. Our first plan was to stay at Agonda for 2 days and then move to some other place. But we ended up staying there for 2 more days. The vibe of Agonda was that good.
South Goa is popular for being laid back. This description exactly suits for Agonda. I am glad that the people here keep this place in such a way. I went to the famous Palolem beach once, it was crowded and commercialised. So for me, Agonda is the favourite.
Everyday, we start by a dip in the ocean and ends by having dinner in one of the beach side restaurants. During day time, we will be riding our Vespa through the villages, visiting other beaches and places. The roads are beautiful here in South Goa, if you find any interesting roads on the way, don’t hesitate to take it.
Another interesting thing I experienced in Agonda beach is the bioluminence. It was unexpected. We were having dinner on the beach side and my girlfriend asked to check the color change when the waves hit the beach. It took some time for me realise it is bioluminence. It was nice to watch those fluroscent coloured waves, though the reason behind this phenomenon is quite alarming.
Don’t miss the sunset in Cabo de Rama fort
On our second day evening, we went to Cabo de Rama fort for the sunset. Couldn’t reach the place on time, but we were able to see the sun going down over the cliff on the way. It was stunning.
We missed it, so came again the next day.
On our second visit to Cabo De Rama fort, we made sure to reach on time and find a nice place to see the sunset inside the fort. We saw the sunset. But there, we found out something interesting. On one side of the fort, there is a gate which opens to a small hill outside the fort premises, the hill looks very intriguing from the fort and it is surrounded by the sea on three sides. It was dark by the time, so we decided to hike the hill the next day.
The next day, we came much earlier, to hike the hill. It was a weekday, so there were only few people inside the Cabo De Rama fort. We were on time for the sunset and found a place to sit, more specifically saying, at the edge of the cliff. The sun was hosting a special show for us that day, serene and beautiful.
South Goa trip won’t be complete without Cabo De Rama fort, you should not miss the sunset here. Come an hour early, so that you get enough time to hike. The small hill is on the exact opposite corner of the fort from the entrance. You will see a trail that leads to the tip of the hill. Be careful, at some places the hill is too sloppy, one wrong step, you are in water.
The freshwater lagoon of Cola Beach
Cola beach is another beautiful beach in South Goa, it is a bit rocky though. It will be less crowded. The road to Cola beach is narrow and dusty. The interesting thing about Cola beach is the freshwater lagoon that is very close to the sea. It is a small and shallow stream that comes and joins the sea. Swimming can be difficult because it is not that deep. You can take a kayak for rent and go upstream upto 200 meters.
Be careful about the broken beer bottles while you are walking in the lagoon, we are not a country of responsible tourists yet. The lagoon and its background will give you amazing photo ideas.
Butterfly beach, sorry, not that great anymore
I have not visited Butterfly beach but wanted to write a few things about this beach. Whenever you search on the internet for the “less known places in South Goa”, the Butterfly beach will be definitely popping up. But what we should realise is that it is no more less known. People like us have already found this place and now you will struggle to even get a picture of yours without the plastic wastes and bottles in the frame. That much worst is the condition. And this is the same with most of the secret or less known places we find on the internet or social media. Just give a thought about it.
People who sell themselves by giving us “the most secret places” ideas won’t realise how they are negatively impacting nature. These are not places to put our trash. Butterfly beach is not beautiful anymore.
South Goa vibe won’t suite for many of us. We have a general notion on Goa. The glamorous beaches, parties, colourful nightlifes, casinos excetra are most of us expect here. In South Goa, you won’t get any of these, coming here will be disappointing. It is better not to come here with that expectation. We should not force this place to change according to our needs. If we do so, obviosuly this place also will loose its charm. Better not to do that. We already have North Goa which is more vibrant, loud and glamorous. Let South Goa stay how it is.
There are many small things here which draws me again to South Goa. The fish thalis from the small road side restaurants, the tiny liquour shop run by the old shirtless man, walking on beach in moon light…the list is small but exhilarating.
Also, want to say that I stand with the struggle of Goan people to protect their land and culture. Read more about it in the below link;
This time I am writing about a trekking trail which is worth considering if you are around Vagamon and have some time with you. A better option to experience the beauty of the landscapes of Vagamon. The grass-covered mountains and the cool wind which blows all the time is what Vagamon is unique for. We wish to be too far away from the usual crowded tourist places sometimes, to have some good time with nature. In that case, the Vakavanam trekking trail can be an option.
Vakavanam trail is a beautiful hike through the grasslands and shola forests of Vagamon hills. It is also called Vagamon windy walk trekking. The trail is serene and offers you spectacular views. We can see the catchment area of Idukki reservoir and the vast stretches of mountains going in all directions. The lucky you might encounter some wildlife also, elephants are most common.
The Vakavanam trail is not at all a difficult one, it is mostly through the grasslands.
The western ghats get a special charm during monsoon, the Vagamon hills are not different, that is the perfect time to explore the trail.
Summers will be dry and you will miss the greenery in the mountains.
Vakavanam trekking
The Vakavanam trail is organised and operated by Eco – development committee, an organisation in this region.
The Vakavanam trekking program is an initiative by the forest department and local government bodies as a sustainable development project in the areas adjacent to Idukki national park. Creating awareness about protecting the Western ghats through equal participation of the people and government is the main intention behind starting such a program. This also provides employment to people living near to the forest.
The normal trekking time is 3 hours. The ticket cost for the trek is about 155 INR. A forest guard will accompany you for the entire trek, gives you all the information about the place, its flora and fauna.
Trekking for a longer time is also possible. For that, you need to inform the authorities well in advance and the group must have a good number of people.
We had a day-long trek and covered about 18 km inside the reserved forest.
From Vagamon, the starting point of Vakavanam trek is about 12 km. It’s on the route between Vagamon and Kattappana. Valakod and Pulinkata are the nearest places. From Valakod, you can ask someone the way. It is about 1 km from there.
There are buses plying on this route. You can enquire in Vagamon for the bus timings. Else catch an auto-rickshaw from Vagamon and head straight to the Vakavanam trek entry point.
Things to know about Vakavanam trekking
The difficulty level of the trek is moderate. The trail is mostly through the grasslands. There are steep slopes on the trail. It is better to come prepared for a proper trek.
Morning time is the best time to trek.
Everyone is expected to follow the instructions of the guide during the trek.
Inside the reserved area, we should be careful to respect nature and animals. Littering and loud noise are the worst things you can do.
Carry enough water and keep hydrated.
How to reach Vagamon
Vagamon is easily accessible by road. There are buses available from Kochi, Kottayam, Munnar and Kumily. If you are coming from Bangalore or Chennai, there are buses available to Munnar. From Munnar, it is a 3-hour journey.
Vagamon is a popular destination in Kerala. Plenty of facilities are available for food and accommodation.
The Vakavanam trek can be done in a weekend. You get more time to explore other parts of Vagamon also.
That’s all about Vakavanam trekking.
You can also find all the trails I explored in the Western ghats. Do check it out.
Do let me know if you need any information regarding the trek.
Put your feedback and queries in the comment box below.
Many of us might know this, that there are two kinds of people in this world, the one who loves mountains and other loves beaches. Theories say that our choice of each destination is very much aligned with our character. Generally, those who like silence or solitude choose mountains and the more kind of proactive ones prefer beaches. It is just a broad classification, there are people who do not belong in either of the two. Sometimes, I had tried to put myself in one of the categories and I was disappointed. Though I like mountains a bit more than beaches, as a person living where the Bay of Bengal is only a few meters from my doorsteps, I never felt any dislike for them.
There are a few places where we can feel both the beach-mountain vibe together. Once such place is Gokarna, located in the Konkan coast of India. Just go there, you can experience what I am talking about. Unlike the party mood in Goa, which is very nearby, Gokarna finds its solace in the silence and laid-back people who visit here. The beaches here are amazing. The sunsets here are the best.
This is my second time in Gokarna. On my first visit, we had hiked up to Paradise beach and spend a night there. Later, I came to know about the Gokarna beach trek which is a 21 km long trail along this beautiful coastal stretch. The Gokarna beach trek is an extension of the hike to Paradise beach. Only very fewer people are aware of the trail from Kumta to Gokarna. It is the best way to experience this landscape. We can do Gokarna beach trek even without taking any guide or trekking packages.
In Gokarna, we can see mountains that comes as close and touches the ocean The Western Ghats and the Arabian sea together form some amazing landscapes with the sandy beaches and rocky cliffs.
Gokarna is also a temple town. Many people visit here for pilgrimage also.
The trek starts from Kumta beach
Kumta to Gokarna beach trek, how to?
Gokarna beach trek is possible either from Kumta side or the Gokarna side. I would suggest to start from Kumta and end at Gokarna.
Kumta is a small town about 35 km from Gokarna by road. Kumta to Gokarna trail is a 21 km long. Though it is long, most part of the trail is through plain terrain and can be covered very easily and faster. During this trek, we come across more than a dozen spectacular beaches and cliffs. You need at least 2 days to complete Gokarna beach trek. Adding one more day will be good though.
Vannelli beach
My friend Alex was with me for the trek. By the time I reached Bangalore, the bus we reserved to Kumta had already left. We then had to search for other buses going in the same direction. Luckily, got a bus to Kundapura which is about 100 km from Kumta.
We reached Kundapura in the morning and took another public transport bus to Kumta. By around 11.30 AM, got down at Kumta town. Though we lost some time for the unexpected journey, we were happy to reach there finally.
We started Gokarna beach trek by noon from Kumta. It was hot already and we could not find any shade on the trail during the initial stretches, we had to walk quickly. Vannelli beach is the one after Kumta beach, hardly 1 km walk.
From Vannelli beach, you can see a hill at the other end. Leave the road and take the trail that goes to the top of the hill. There are two reasons to go up. First, the views from the top are amazing. And second, you can find the trail to the next beach. The further trail is pretty clear and scenic, you will leave the small coastal village of Vannelli quickly and enter the beautiful Mangodlu beach.
Vannelli beach
Unlike Vannelli beach, Mangodlu beach is deserted, calm and serene. Walking forward, there is another cliff and once you cross it, you find a long sandy stretch of about 8 km. This is the longest beach in our Gokarna beach trek. Though it is a continuous stretch, it is not a single beach. Kadle, Gudeangadi and Nirvana beach come one after the other.
It was almost evening when we reached Kadle beach. The sun was going down and it was beautiful. Our plan was to finish this stretch and camp at the next beach. But walking 8.5 km took a little more time, so we pitched our tent near Nirvana beach for the night.
Waking up to the sound of waves was different from the usual. We had to walk a little faster that day because we couldn’t complete as per our previous day plan. We continued our trek. The cold breeze from the sea accompanied us along the way.
We found another cliff at the end of Nirvana beach. Found one trail that goes up, so decided to take that, with the hope to cross cliff and reach next beach. But to our bad luck, the trail ended in the middle of nowhere and we couldn’t find our way forward. We tried to find some way to reach the other side. The trail ended in front of a forest with thick thorny bushes. We covered some distance through the forest by crawling on our knees. But it was getting more thicker and impossible to go forward. We came back and took the road.
Since we lost some time on the top, there was no choice other than to skip Haven beach. So straight away went to Aghanashini jetty to catch the ferry and cross the river. Actually, Heaven beach is one of the beautiful beaches on this trail and it should not be missed.
Crossing Aghanashini river
The name of the river is also Aghanashini. Frequent ferries are available to cross the river. Tadadi fishing harbour is on the other side of the river. From the harbour to the left, it is God’s own beach. It is better to take the road to reach Belekan beach which is the next after God’s own beach.
At the end of the rocky Balekan beach, there are two roads. The one which goes left leads to the lighthouse at the top of the hill and the other goes to the most beautiful beach in the Gokarna beach trek, Paradise beach.
Look down to find Paradise beach
If not on the wrong trail, you will find a small cafe called“New Cafe” after a short distance. From there the Paradise beach is a 20-minute hike. This beach will be very much different from the others in Gokarna beach trek. If you have more than 2 days, then I would suggest staying a night at Paradise beach.
Paradise beach
From Paradise beach, the trail is easy and you can find a lot of people on the trail. As you hike further, you reach Small Hell beach, Katu Rock beach, Half moon beach and then Om beach. Om beach is one of the most popular beaches here in Gokarna. Unlike other beaches on this trek, Om beach will be more crowded and commercialised. Form Om beach, you can also hike to Kudle beach which is a little far. Or else finish the trek in Om beach and celebrate the trek with a beer from any the beach side cafes.
Paradise beach
How to reach Gokarna?
You can start Gokarna beach trek from either Gokarna or Kumta. The best way to reach Gokarna or Kumta is by train, why because you can experience the beauty of the Konkan coast also on the way. There are trains from Banglore that goes via Gokarna road or Kumta. You get a train from Mangalore also, there is one train that starts at about 6 AM that goes to Goa. It will reach Kumta by 11 AM.
If you are planning to reach by bus, private buses are available to either Gokarna or Kumta from Banglore. An overnight journey will take you to Kumta. Kumta beach is about 2 km from town, you can walk or hire an autorickshaw and from there, start Gokarna beach trek.
Gokarna beach trek expense
You can do this trek with a very minimal expense. The major expense will be for travel. If you are taking a bus from Banglore or any other place, it will cost you around 1000 INR one side. There are cheaper buses also. Trains are a great option if you are travelling in a budget.
Apart from the cost to get there, I don’t think you have to spend on anything other than food and accommodation. Bring your tent, you can pitch it anywhere on the beach.
Don’t miss the sunset in Gokarna
Things to know for Kumta Gokarna beach trek
I am confused whether to call this as a trek. By trek, many will expect it to be tough. But Gokarna beach trek is easy. Keeping aside a few cliffs on the way, most of the trail is through the beaches.
Days are hot in this part of the country generally. Though it was January, it was sunny during the day and the temperature was high. So I suggest, trek during the early and late hours of the day when the sun is less harsh. Also, remember to carry anything that protects you from the sun.
You can complete the trek easily in two days. A weekend is good enough. But as I said before, three days will be a good option, you can experience the place at a slower pace.
You can pitch tents on most of the beaches. Once it gets dark, you won’t find people and the place will be all yours.
If trekking for two days, hike up to Heaven beach on the first day and stay there for the night.
We couldn’t go to Heaven beach and that was the sad part of our trek. I am not sure how to reach Heaven bach from Nirvana beach. We saw a few trails ( not the one we took and lost) going in that direction. It is better to ask someone from Nirvana beach about the trail to Heaven beach. Don’t get disappointed if somebody tells you that such a beach or trail does not exist, try asking some more people. Many here are not aware of it.
Don’t forget to take enough water and food for your overnight stay at the beach.
If you have three days for Gokarna beach trek, stay at Nirvana beach for the first day and continue the trek up to Paradise beach on the second day. You will get enough time to explore the little town of Gokarna also on the third day.
Though Gokarna beach trek is through the cliffs and beaches, most of the time there will be a road going parallel to the trail. There are shops are restaurants on the roadside.
Some of the rocks on the beach are slippery, do watch your steps.
The trail between Om beach and Paradise beach is very popular. Many coming to Gokarna will hike up to Paradise beach also. You will find a lot of trails going in different directions between Om and Paradise beach, just make sure the direction you go is correct. Venturing in the night may be confusing.
To be frank, I find there is no point in choosing any trekking companies to go for Gokarna beach trek. It is very easy to find the trails and if you can carry your tent and food, there is nothing much needed for this trek.
If you have more time, do explore Gokarna town also. The temples and the streets are amazing.
That’s all about Gokarna beach trek. Hope you got all the necessary information. This small two-day trek will be a different experience, you will definitely like it.
Do let me know if you need have any queries regarding Gokarna beach trek, you can use the comment box below.
Also, I am very happy to get your feedback about anything which needs to be improved on this website or any places you wish to know more about.
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I visited Munnar recently to witness Neelakurinji flower blooming. What is so special about Neelakurinji blooming is that these plants flowers only once in 12 years. It is a rare and exclusive event in nature, everybody was waiting eagerly for a long time. But unfortunately, heavy rain and flood in Kerala cut off Munnar from outside world for a good number of days. It was only towards the last days of the life of Neelakurinji flowers that most people were able to visit Munnar and experience this colourful fiesta of nature. I was also waiting, who knows I will be alive to see them again after 12 years. So decided to go even though it was late and most of the flowers have already perished. Came to Munnar on a weekend, explored some amazing places like Kolukkumalai and Vattavada in search of the flowers.
More than seeing the Neelakurinji flowers, the journey was the most exciting part. I visited some new places in these mountains. Kolukkumalai has the best views from the top, I would say. And Vattavada is another beautiful village far away from the hustle of tourism, have the best climate and some really fresh air.
So what is Neelakurinji?
It is a very common plant found in the mountains of Western Ghats. The scientific name is “Strobilanthes Kurunthias”, a blue colour flower. A certain region of the Western Ghats is called “Nilgiris”, because of these flowers. “Neela” is blue in Malayalam and Tamil. Every year, the Neelakurinji blooms in some random areas of the Western Ghats but this year it bloomed over a very large area.
This year it flowered mainly in the hills of Munnar, Ooty, Masinagudi and Kodaikanal. The flower individually is not that attractive in fragrance or appearance. But as a large group, once the entire mountains are covered with them, it will turn the landscape blue and it is something that everyone who loves nature should not miss. I can say, it is one of nature’s finest display of its beauty.
people visiting Kolukkumalai to see Neelakurinji
I reached Munnar on a fine morning. The small town of Munnar was crowded, though it is not a tourist season, the reason was Neelakurinji flowers. People from cities like Chennai and Bangalore were coming in big groups, especially during weekends.
The tourism department had many plans to promote this event and they were trying to bring a lot of tourists from around the globe. But the unexpected heavy monsoon was a big setback. So the tourism industry picked up only by the end of the season.
tea plantations of Munnar
I was coming from Chennai. Once we pass Udumbanchola in Tamil Nadu on the way to Munnar, then you are entering into the forests of Marayur and Chinnar. My bus was going through the forest when I woke up, the views where amazing. Everyone on the bus was so excited to see Neelakurinji. Like most of the roads, this road was also damaged by landslides during the heavy rains. We can see patches on land sliced from the hillside and went down. During rain, the landslides are one biggest danger of the hill stations of the Western Ghats.
My friend Shankar was waiting for me in Munnar, the town was slowly waking up from the morning chill. We started towards Kolukkumalai in his motorcycle
Kolukkumalai
Kolukkumalai is said to be the highest tea plantation in the world. It is about 40 km from Munnar. The mountaintop is very famous for it sun rises. If you are coming here, then you should not miss the sunrise. We can come to the top of the mountain early in the morning to see the sunrise. Watching the sunrise, from the top, standing above the clouds is more than stunning.
on the top
We passed villages like Devikulam and Chinnakanal, all surrounded by vast tea plantations. People living in these villages work in these big tea estates. On the way, we can see women, carrying large sacks on their bag and plucking fine tea leaves early in the morning.
During the British period in India, they cleared off the forests in these mountains and planted tea. The tea from Munnar is very well known around the world. The people who live here now are successors of those who were brought by the British to work in the plantations. The only difference now is that the British have gone and big private companies own these estates now.
How to reach Kolukkumalai
To visit Kolukkumalai, you have to reach Suryanelli first. The entrance to Kolukkumalai tea estate is just half kilometre from Suryanelli town. It is not at all difficult to find the entrance. You will get public transport from Munnar to Suryanelli. There are a couple of buses which start from Munnar in the morning. The number of buses is limited but you will get a shared taxi ride from Munnar to Suryanelli all the time. That is the most economical way to travel there. So before taking any private taxi or auto, just inquire about the availability of public transport.
There is a Kerala transport bus at 6.30 AM and 10.30 AM from Munnar.
Kolukkumalai is a private property, at the entrance, you need to enter the name and pay the entrance fee. Our own vehicles are not allowed inside the estate. You can only go to Kolukkumalai in the vehicles provided by the estate. A vehicle will cost you around 2000 INR. Around 7-8 people can travel in a vehicle. So if you are alone or less in number, then try to find someone to share the ride and expense.
ride to Kolukkumalai peak
A ride up to the top of Kolukkumalai will take more than one hour. The journey itself is adventurous, there are no proper roads and the vehicle will be going all the way jumping one rock to another. You need some skills to drive in those roads.
Inside the estate, on the way, you will get some amazing views of the mountains. Vast tea estates stretch as far as we can see. There are plenty of viewpoints and a few small waterfalls on the way.
On the top of the Kolukkumalai hills, I found Neelakurinji flowers.
Vattavada
After Kolukkumalai, our next destination was Vattavada. We came back to Munnar and took another direction to reach Vattavada. Like most of the places around Munnar, the road to Vattavada is not at all disappointing. The views on both sides were surreal.
An interesting thing happened on the way. After passing the Mattupetty dam, there were elephants on the road and they attacked us. That was my first such experience and elephants came so close to us. We had to turn our motorcycle back to escape. After some failed attempts, the elephant realised we were harmless and agreed for a truce. And we continued.
Road to Vattavada
It started to rain after. You may be knowing, I am a person who had fallen in love with the rains. Munnar also gave me something to be happier. We continued our journey. The cold wind was our challenge then. The greenery of the Munnar became more enchanting once it is touched by light drizzle and later the fog.
How to reach Vattavada
Vattavada is around 42 km from Munnar. The direction is same as towards Top Station. Top station is almost in the middle of Munnar and Vattavada. Just after Top Station, you will enter into Pampadum Shola National park. There is a forest check post and if you want to go to Vattavada, need to enter it before 6 PM. When we reached, it was 6.15 PM and the officers just let us pass. The road after that is through the lush and green forest till you reach Vattavada.
The climate of Vattavada is super chill, I think that is the major reason why people prefer here instead of Munnar or other places. The temperature almost reaches 0 degrees during winters. The air is fresh.
It was dark when we reached Vattavada, streets filled with people and their conversations. The temple at the village centre was very active at that time. The prayers from the temple microphones echoed the entire valley. We began looking for some budget hotels, the people were very helpful, within a short time, found our place to sleep for the night.
I saw Vattavada on the next day morning, it was dark when I reached and we had to find a place to crash as the village will go to sleep by 8 PM. Vattavada is very similar to the villages of Kodaikanal. Though it is in Kerala, the people here speak Tamil and their lifestyle is more inclined to Tamil culture.
Walking through the narrow bylanes of the village reminded me about the Kookal village.
Actually, Vattavada is near to the Kerala-Tamilnadu border and once you cross the border, then it is Kodaikanal. The border villages of Kodaikanal like Kavunji and Klavara are much nearer than Munnar from here. There is actually a trek route from Vattavada to Kodaikanal but this forest route was closed now.
Vattavada survives on agriculture. The hillsides are occupied with farmlands. They grow carrots, cabbages and strawberries mainly. The farmers will bring their produce to the village centre and later agents will take them to send to the markets. A day in the village is busy with sales and auctions of vegetables and fruits.
A walk through the farmland is the best thing you can do here. If it is morning, people will be working on the fields and you get an understating about farming. Sometimes, they will offer you freshly plucked strawberries. The fresh strawberries are a treat to the tongue. Don’t forget to buy homemade jams and wines made of strawberries before leaving Vattavada.
Vattavada was not in the tourist radar for a long time. But recently, as the resort business in and around Munnar is legally controlled by the government, the new constructions are moved to Vattavada. A lot of forest area is clearing nowadays to build hotels and cottages. It is definitely not good. The uncontrolled growth in tourism will affect the climate and life in Vattavada.
We can feel the impact very clearly. Previously, Vattavada was a peaceful village, it is changing now. The transformation of these innocent villages is very common everywhere. I have seen many such places being forcefully dragged into the tourism industry, during my journeys through the Western Ghats. Vattavada is not different. Promoting sustainable tourism is one solution to this problem. If you are a good traveller, then think about it before choosing your accommodation and bringing plastics to these places.
finally ended up at here
One person in the village told us that there are Neelakurinji flowers in Chilanthiyar which is a nearby village. It is closer to the Kerala-Tamilnadu border. The road from Vattavada to Chilathiyar is scenic. We found some Neelakurinji flowers on a hillside in Chilanthiyar.
Even though we couldn’t see the mass Neelakurinji blooming as it is, we were very happy about both Kolukkumalai and Vattavada. Both the destinations and the journey was amazing and beautiful.
Do check out these amazing places you can visit in the Western Ghats.
That’s all about Vattavada and Kolukkumalai.
Also read about Poombarai and Vellagavi, beautiful Kodai villages on the other side of Munnar.
I hope you got all the information needed. Please let me know if you have any queries or suggestions. You can put them on the comment box below.
I thank my friend Bijin for helping me with some pictures on this blog.
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I visited Agumbe this monsoon finally. It was a long wait. I knew about this place since long time. But with one reason or other, my visit did not happened. Even this time also, had to postpone our journey once because of the landslides on the ghat road to Agumbe.
So here is why I suggest you to only visit Agumbe when it is at its most beauty, the monsoons.
To those who are new about Agumbe, here goes a little intro.
First of all, Agumbe is in Western ghats of India, in the Northern Karnataka to be little more exact. It gets the highest rains in the South India. Hence it is the wettest place often described as the Cherrapunji of South India. Agumbe is green and wet most of the time, with beautiful rainforests and much more beautiful waterfalls. It is said to have the highest population of snakes in the country. King Cobras are quite common here.
Agumbe is peaceful , a small village in the mountains and it becomes even more stunning than usual during the monsoon, the best time to visit Agumbe, the only sad fact that you won’t be able to visit the waterfalls. It will be closed but that won’t make you feel bad I gu. You can definitely ditch waterfalls for such a wonderful rain experience.
Monsoon was at its peak when I visited Agumbe. The rain didn’t stop from the time I reached there on a saturday morning. Agumbe was sleeping tight under the blanket of fog. The rain was not heavy, mostly drizzle. It feels like the rain is behind you, watching, wherever you go here. It was a chill feel all over.
Spotted a big house on roadside itself, right guess, it was the well known Doddamane. I had read about the Doddamane in most stories of those who visited Agumbe. Wished to stay there but couldn’t get a room since we did not call them in advance. Doddamane is an old house, it was the only option for accomodation there before the other hotels and guest houses. There was a television series telecated in Indian national channel, based on the book “ Malgudi days” by R.K Narayan. The Doddamane was a one of the main character in that series. It is managed by Kasturi akka and her son now. Most of those who travel to Agumbe prefer to stay in Doddamane.
Nowadays, you will have more options to stay in Agumbe. Many hotels and homestays are functioning here. We found one near to the bus stand.
The rain had no intention to stop. A public protest was going on there that day. The people are demanding the authorities to control the wild animals from destroying their crops. This is a big issue in most parts of the Western ghats. The conflicts between wild animals and the people are increasing day by day. We can’t take the sides of either the people or the wild animals. It is an issue that has to be handled without harming both sides.
As someone who was born and raised in a different part of the same mountains, I have experienced these issues personaly. The people living here are people mostly farmers, whose life completely depends on the crops. It is miserable when the crops get destroyed by the wild animals. We cannot blame the animals, they are losing their habitats and food, so they come out of the forest in search of it. Sometimes people kill animals and sometime the animals kill people. It goes like that.
people on the streets
That day, most people supported the protest by closing the shops. They came out in the streets even in the rain. Later, got the sad news that all the waterfalls are closed due to heavy downpour. Hence we decided to trek Kavaledurga fort. After walking around the village for sometime, took the bus to Thirthahalli. From there you need to catch another ride to Kavaledurga. Kavaledurga fort is on the top of hill, you need to trek up the top to have some amazing views of this place. The trek is an easy one and best time is again monsoon.
Spent a lot of time in the fort, since the rain was not stopping, didn’t have any intention to come back.
Next day morning, hired an autorickshaw to Kundadri hills. There is an old Jain temple on the top and we will get some good views of the areas around.
Later, had the complete day to explore the little village of Agumbe. The village looks lazy in the rains. We cannot see much people outside, few shops here and there on the roadside. Most houses have a covering of tarpaulin sheets to escape from the damage of rains. We walked all around the village. The roads turned to small streams, water goes all the way to reach the nearby river.
The Rainforest research station is another good place to visit in Agumbe. There is nothing much to see there. The walk through the forest to reach there and interaction with the people working in the research center will be a great experience. They are mainly studying about the King Cobras here. You need to walk few kilometers to reach the research station.
The last thing to do in Agumbe before we leave was the sun set point. It is around 2 km from the village center. The route goes through the forest. We decided to take a walk.
views from Kundadri hills
Agumbe is located in between the road connecting Udupi and Shimoga, which are the major towns in this region. So there will be vehicles on the road all the time. The sunset point and some other viewpoints are the attractions on the roadside itself. Lot of people stop there at evening to see the sunset.
How to reach Agumbe
Agumbe
We can reach Agumbe from Bangalore, Udupi, Mangalore and Shimoga. You need to reach any of these places and catch a bus to Agumbe. From Bangalore, there are Karnataka government buses and few private bus services. An overnight journey from Bangalore will take you to Agumbe.
Udupi is the nearest railway station if train is your mode of transport. Agumbe is 60 km from Udupi. Other nearby railway stations are Mangalore and Shimoga
Stay in Agumbe
There are only few options for hotels in Agumbe. The Doddamane is the first choice if you are looking for a homestay experience. Call Doddamane and reserve your bed well in advance. It will be full mostly during weekends and holidays. A big group can not stay there, they have few rooms only.
There is one hotel opposite to Agumbe bus station. They have many rooms and the hotel will make arrangements for your local travel in Agumbe also. We paid 700 INR for a double room for one day.
I saw couple of other hotels, but no idea how they will be. There are also many other homestays in Agumbe.
Agumbe, travel expense
My major expenses in Agumbe was for travel and stay. The bus from Bangalore and the local travel take the major share of trip cost. If you are traveling single or in small groups, then you need to take auto rickshaws to reach most of the sights around Agumbe. Else you need to bring your own vehicle. The fare for auto rickshaws are tolerable compared to other tourist locations.
If alone, team up with some other groups and you can share some of expenses.
Sometimes, the hotel people will make arrangements for local travel if a group is ready. You can also walk to the nearby places like sunset point and rainforest research station.
Cost for food is normal.
Things to in Agumbe
For me, Agumbe is more about rain. Even if I am not able to go out also I would be happy about this place.
But there are many things to do in Agumbe. The waterfalls are the major attractions. Most of the waterfalls are little inside the forest, need to trek to reach them. You need to hire a guide to visit those places.
Forests here are thick rainforest. Exploring them will be a great experience. Narasimha Parvata trek is very popular here. It is a forest trek and will be closed in the monsoon
The next best thing to do in Agumbe is surely the Kavaledurga fort trek. Just walk up to the top of fort and enjoy the views.
Do visit Kundadri hills to get some amazing views of this area.
Visiting the Rainforest research center would be good. The people there will give you some insights about the snakes there and the studies they are carrying out there. The walk to the research is also nice. Check out their website: agumberainforest.org
Visit the sunset point, it is about 2 km from Agumbe bus station. It will be little crowdy. When I was there, couldn’t see the sunset, it was totally cloudy. But the more beautiful was the long walk we had at the late hours of the daylight.
Karkala is also near by, about 45 km from Agumbe. Karkala is known for its centuries old jain temple. You will get buses to reach Karkala from Agumbe. It is a good place to visit if you have more time.
Agumbe to Kundadri hills
Kundadri Hills is about 18 km from Agumbe. If you go by autorickshaw, they will charge you around 500 INR for two side journey. You will also get bus till half way. Take any bus that goes to Thirthahalli and get down at Guddakeri. Then you can hike or take an autorickshaw. It will save you some money. Somebody told me that there are bus service till the base of Kundadri hills, but not sure about the timing.
Jain temple in Kundadri Hills
Things to know before you visit Agumbe
First thing, if you are visiting Agumbe, would only suggest that, you need to be prepared for the rain. Carry water proof covers and umbrella. In monsoon time, don’t thing that the rain would stop, it’s not that easy.
Also bring few pairs of extra clothes.
Definitely there will be leeches. It will be annoying, bring whatever required to prevent the,. Salt is a good repellent. I have seen people spraying something to kill them, but just give them a hard knock with your fingers, they are gone.
For food, there is a good restaurant in the bus station, roadside itself.
All the shops will close by 9 PM, so better make sure you have everything before that.
Agumbe is a destination for rain. If you want to experience the monsoon in the Western ghats, Agumbe should be your first place.The rain may not let you go out and see the places but it will catch your heart
Hope you liked the place.
Do visit Agumbe.
Let me know your suggestions, queries and feedbacks by the comment box below. I like to hear from you and am happy to help.
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Kavaledurga fort is a hill fort near to Agumbe, which is the wettest place in South India. When I visited Agumbe, the monsoon was at its best in the subcontinent. What else is the best time to visit such a place. We had to cancel our journey initially due to the landslides in the ghat road to Agumbe. Waited for few weeks but there was an uncertainty in our journey till we reach there.It was continuously raining from the time I got down in Agumbe till we boarded our bus back. As a person who loves monsoons, Agumbe made me really happy. The rain is so beautiful here. The best moments of the journey was undoubtedly the Kavaledurga fort trek.
the start
It was my first day at Agumbe. The major attractions here are the waterfalls, all of them closed due to the heavy rain. My friend Alex was also with me. We were staying in Agumbe and the rain had no intention to stop. Made our plans immediatley, wrapped our phones and wallet in a plastic cover, jumped out in to the rain and ran to the bus station to catch a ride to Thirthahalli.
From Thirthahalli, an auto took us to the start of Kavaledurga fort trek. It was a small village, few houses here and there, vast flooded green paddy fields. Few were working in the fields hiding from the rain under their raincoat. The people in the shop at the entry offered us those raincoats when they saw us drenched in the rain. We said no. We are here to be in the rain, to get wet as much as possible, to witness the nature’s most beautiful phenomenon and to walk in the muddy water.
The initial stretch of Kavaledurga fort trek is through the paddy fields. Once you cross the fields, there will be a small wooden gate and you can see the stone paved roads up to the hills. The trek is not that difficult. May be during rains, the rocks will be slippery. That’s the only thing we should keep in mind while walking. The hill is forest covered, all you can hear is sound of water drops. My thoughts went back to the monsoon trek in Kodachadri last year.
Walk for 30 minutes, you reach the first entrance of the fort. You will realise that the fort was not that small. The fort has a layers of such entrances. The construction of Kavaledurga fort is amazing. How those people built such an enormous fort on the top of the hill, a question that is still in my mind. After the entrance, you reach a temple with two long pillars at its front. I was walking around the temple, suddenly my attention went to the pond behind it. The water was emerald in colour. The pond was big, there was stairs down to the pond. Huge trees were lining all the four sides of the pond. It was full of small ripples as the rain drops falls over the leaves to the water.
We can see some more tanks like these as you hike further. These water tanks are the speciality of the Kavaledurga fort. They are built very beautifully. All the tanks were full with water upto the brim. There are narrow underground channels which connects the tanks to maintain the water at a particular level.
Once we walk past the initial structures of the fort, we can see bunch of stone pillars, standing up, widely spread over a large area. Those are the remains of the palace, found out during a recent excavation. We can easily identify the main hall of the palace by the placement of the pillars. From the site, I can imagine the size of palace, it is big enough for a place like this. There is another pond behind the palace, which have a peculiar shape.I guess that might be the king’s swimming pool.
only the pillars remains
The fort was almost deserted at that time, everyone left since it was raining heavily. The forest cover will get more thick after the palace ruins.There is a trail up to the top but very few only hikes up furthur. We decided to go up. The trail will become more steep as you reach the top. But once you are there, you will realise that, it was worth coming. To see the complete beauty of this fort, I would suggest you to trek till the top.
on the way to the top
I felt so happy when reached up there. The rain, the views from the top and the ruins of the fort; all of them together was magical.
We decided to walk back,as it was getting dark. Back at the entrance gate, celebrated our hike with a hot coffee. It was still raining and we were not worried about it anymore. Back to Agumbe.
How to reach Kavaledurga fort
You will be visiting Kavaledurga fort from Agumbe most probably. You need to reach Thirthahalli first, it is about 25 km from Agumbe. During day time, lot of buses are available passing through Thirthahalli. Thirthahalli is a comparatively bigger town. From there, you can reach Kavaledurga fort either by bus or auto. Getting a bus is totally depends on your luck. There are no frequent buses. Ask someone there, they can help you with the bus timings. Or else you can take an auto rickshaw to Kavaledurga fort, it will costs around 300 INR.
For coming back, buses are there but be sure with the timings. Better ask for bus timings at the shops in the entrance and plan your trek according to it.
We hired an auto rickshaw from Thirthahalli and took the driver contact number. On the way back, since we missed the bus,called the same guy to pick us.
Few things to keep in mind before Kavaledurga fort trek
Kavaledurga fort trek is not at all a difficult trek. Everyone can do it, the only thing is that you need to climb up a hill through the stone paved roads.
I would suggest you to visit Kavaledurga during monsoons, it will be an amazing experience.
If you are trekking in monsoon, the rocks will be slippery, so be careful and bring a nice hiking shoes.
The forests of Agumbe is known for snakes and I won’t suggest you to venture more into the forest out of curiosity. The forests are totally strange for us who lives in the cities, so it is good to avoid snake encounters.
There are few shops at the entrance of the trek, you can buy something to eat from there but don’t put the wrappers inside the fort. We should keep this place clean and moreover it is forest. A little conscious about these things can bring a big change, I believe.
The gate to Kavaledurga fort will get closed by 5.30 PM. The people at the gate won’t allow you to enter after that time. So plan your trek accordingly.
If you are trekking in the rain, better don’t take your phones or cameras, it will be a burden for you. All the time, you will be thinking about it, whether it gets wet, and that will definitely spoil the vibe. Else bring plastic covers to keep them safe.
From the ruins of palace, you can further trek up to the top. The trail will be little steeper and you need to walk through dense forest. But the views from the top was stunning. And I would suggest you to definitely hike to the top if it is possible.
That’s all about Kavaledurga fort trek. Do visit this fort when you are in Agumbe. Agumbe is one of the must visit place in Western ghats, the rain here is really amazing.
The places to visit in Kodaikanal is never-ending. Each time you go, you hear about another place. The next time you go there, then again another. That is what happens to me, over the time I have been to many such amazing places. Either it is the charming Kookal village, the trek to Vellagavi or beautiful Vilaptti village , Kodai mountains never made me feel bored anytime.
This time it is another beautiful settlement far away from the bustling Kodaikanal town where you can still find the real life of Kodai; Poombarai village. It is a must visit place in Kodaikanal. I and my friend Alex visited Poombarai recently. It’s not me, Alex is writing about the beautiful Poombarai village this time.
Alex
Over the course of years, I have traveled to Kodaikanal many times both with friends and alone. And on each occasion, Kodai hills tend to uncover more and more locations which are absolutely breathtaking. Even though the excess of tourists and urbanization tend to affect the experience, it is safe to say that Kodai still offers the same serenity and tranquil atmosphere. Because of this reason I always try to avoid crowded areas and popular tourist attractions like Guna caves, Pine forests, etc.
It was time to find a new destination for the weekend. Kodaikanal tends to be the first place that comes to mind as an option on such occasions as it is easily accessible from all South Indian cities and roads are pretty good. And I came to know from one of my friends about this new café that his friends are developing on the outskirts of Kodaikanal. When he said it is situated near Poombarai, I made the decision immediately. Even though I’ve seen the village from a distance a couple of times, I never visited the place myself. I knew this could be the best place to free myself from the regularity of work life in such a way that I could be calm and undisturbed even it is for a short time.
Poombarai
Poombarai is a village located in the heart of the Palani hills, 16 kilometers from Kodaikanal town. It is situated at an altitude of 1,920 meters with a population of around 1000 families. Those who have been to Mannavanur or Kookal village might have seen Poombarai village from a distance. It is in the valley and visible from the main road with an astonishing view. Those who have traveled in the SETC bus from Kodai town to Mannavanur can never miss the sight as most of the buses take a tea break near this village and that point provides a picturesque view of the entire valley.
More than half of the journey from Kodaikanal town is through the forest. You can spot many wild animals also on this route. The village is on the valley with farmlands all around it and on the surrounding small hills also. The farming includes cabbage, carrot and other vegetables. Some surrounding hills are fully covered with forest. The climate was chilly with a little bit of drizzle sometimes.
We reached Poombarai from Kodaikanal after almost an hour journey, met our friends. They provided us with a tent and showed a place to pitch the tent. From there, we had an amazing view of the valley. Spent the day by hiking a little bit into the forest. As always the Kodai forests were amazing with a lot of colorful birds and squirrels. The birds singing were absolutely magnificent in the silence of the forest. Even though the forest looks calm and peaceful it is not advised to roam further as you might get lost, there are chances of wild animals like bison also. The forest officers comb the roads to check for any vehicles stopping and if people getting into the forest. This is mostly because of the recent wildfire accident and the magic mushrooms.
village life
The next morning we walked to the village early morning in the hopes of seeing a beautiful sunrise. Instead of taking the paved road to the village, we opted the shortcut through hills. Though a little bit risky the trail was beautiful with many flowers carrying dew drops in the chill morning. As we crossed some farmlands the farmers greeted us. They were very friendly and intrigued by seeing us so early. As we reached the village we realized that there was no hope for a sunrise as the skies were too cloudy. We roamed around the village for some time and had breakfast from a local tea shop. The food was very tasty, the people were very friendly and genuine.
How to reach Poombarai?
Kodaikanal is connected to Bangalore, Chennai, Dindigul, etc by road and many buses are available. The nearest major railway station is Coimbatore. From Kodaikanal, it is 19 km to Poombarai village and buses are available, though not frequently. You can also get buses to Mannavanur or Poondi and get down at the main road and walk a couple of kilometers to the village.
farmlands
Stay and food in Poombarai
As Poombarai is still a developing tourism spot, there are no cottages or hotels are available in the village. A few are located along the main road and as for eateries, our friend’s place was pretty good. For authentic rural experience, there are a few small tea shops in the village. Care for mobile coverage also as most networks are not available.
the best way
Things to do
Most of the tourists visit Poombarai as a stop on the way to Mannavanur. Others are attracted by the serenity and calm of the village away from the busy city life. You can feel free and enjoy the fresh air or talk to some local people knowing about their lives. There are few trekking trails around the major being the trail to Palani. It is around 20 km through forest and Palar dam catchment area. After the recent wildfire accident, the authorities are very strict and no one are permitted to go through this and most of the trekking routes without prior permission and help of a guide.
That’s about this quiet and alluring little village surrounded by great beautiful hills and gentle people. Consider this place when you plan your next trip looking for some untroubled peaceful time.
Into the magic..!!!
Hope you got all the necessary information to plan your next journey to Poombarai village in Kodaikanal. Most of us go to Kodaikanal quite often, so next time, just ditch the usual tourist stuff and let’s explore something new here.
Do let me know your suggestions and feedbacks in the comment box.
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I woke up and looked out the bus, felt like I was traveling back to my hometown. The bus has already reached Dandeli. The trees and the roads were wet, definitely it rained the previous night. Felt so refreshed to watch those greenery passing as my bus entered the bus station. I came to visit Dandeli for three days and had a great time here.
Dandeli is a small town located in the northern part of Karnataka. It is not a super popular tourist destination, at least till now. So when Rajesh from Dandeli.com invited to visit Dandeli, I didn’t have to think much. Told him that I wanted to visit during monsoon and the dates were fixed. As the days to travel were getting nearby, big excitement was growing inside me. The Western ghats will get an entirely different character during the rains, I had an amazing monsoon trek in Kudachadri earlier.
Dandeli has all the beauty of Western Ghats. The population density is comparatively less in this region. The economy is strongly dependent on the forest and now tourism. The West coast paper mill is one big industry in Dandeli. Apart from the occasional weekend tourists, who mainly come for rafting, Dandeli is a quiet place.
Kali river
Before going more into Dandeli, I have something to ask you;
Do you like spending time walking through the lush forest?
Can you bear the silence of nature?
Are you okay watching birds singing all the day?
If your answer for all the above is “Yes”, then apart from just as a rafting place, Dandeli has a lot to offer for you.
Here is why you should visit Dandeli?
The Kali river
Supa dam on Kali river
By the time you reach Dandeli, this charming river will be following you wherever you go. The river Kali is an integral part of Dandeli. The people here completely depend upon this river for their livelihood and agriculture is beautiful. The river appears to be black in color. it is because of the mineral-rich rocks at the bottom. The word “Kali” means black.
Since it is flowing through the forest in Dandeli, the water is fresh. You can see a lot of animals on the banks of the river all the time. To give you some shiver, there are also crocodiles on some areas of the river.
The Old Magazine House
A day stay in Old Magazine house was one of the best things happened to me in Dandeli.
The Old Magazine House is run by the forest department. It was built to store the explosives during the construction of the Supa dam across the Kali river. Later the government converted it into a forest resort.
The Old Magazine House is in Ganeshgudi which is about 25 km from Dandeli.
The Old Magazine House is a very well known place among bird watchers. During the peak season time, photographers and bird watchers from all around the world come here. Since it was monsoon now, there were only a few visitors. The resort is calm and silent, the only sound we hear is that of the birds, few monkeys and a giant squirrel couple which roams around the resort compound all the time. Moreover, the mobile phone networks are weak here, so no distractions.
cottages at the Old Magazine House
The Old magazine has private rooms, cottages and dormitory. The facilities are available as a package which includes rafting, coracle ride, trekking, bird watching and nature walks.
Later in the evening that day, the guides from the resort took me to the top of a hill near to the resort to watch the sunset. It is a 30-minute trek through the forest. From the top, you will get a panoramic view of the catchment area of the Supa dam. The sunset from the top was beautiful.
One thing I really like about Old Magazine House is the food. During my journeys, I don’t expect much about the food but surprised by the food here. The hospitality is really worth mentioning and the employees are putting a lot of effort to keep the standard of the jungle resort.
From the resort met a researcher from London who is studying about birds for the last 15 years. Went for a walk with him, told lot of fascinating information about birds and butterflies.
The forest camp will get a different mood in the night. The surroundings become so still as the darkness crawl over the forest. Sitting around the fire in front of the cottage, all you can hear is the sound of crickets.
views from the top
River Rafting
Now coming to the most interesting part of my visit to Dandeli.
Whenever someone talks about Dandeli, river rafting will be the first thing that they tag with this place. I was very excited to see the Kali river and raft through the rapids of this beautiful river.
I was a little hesitant when the instructor told to jump into the river to just familiarise with the water initially. Someone from our group shouted there was a crocodile.
A few years back, the government built Supa dam across Kali river, after that the water level in the river is not predictable. If the dam is open, there will be a pretty good amount of water in the river and rafting is possible. But in the other case, you need to wait for the perfect day. I was lucky enough, there was more than enough water in the river that day.
The Kali river
I will tell you why rafting in the river Kali is special. Generally, we do rafting in the Himalayan rivers. Most of us might have rafted there. The terrain and landscape will be the rocky mountains. But just imagine yourself rafting over the rapids through thick forest, both sides lined by big trees. If that gives you some excitement, then you should visit Dandeli and try rafting.
The best part of the rafting was the final stage, where we go through a very dark narrow part of the river. The river goes zig-zag like a snake. The instructor will ask us to be silent and listen to the forest. We will be floating slowly, branches of trees sliding past our face, that will takes us to a magical world.
The Hornbills
When I was on the way to the Timber depot in Dandeli, I was skeptical. Since my previous day in Old Magazine house was full of bird encounters, I was thinking how this is going to be interesting.
The moment I reached the depot, realized how stupid my doubts were. Received a hearty welcome from a large bunch of colorful birds feasting on the fig tree at the entrance.
at the timber depot for hornbills
After a brief introduction about the place and the birds here, our guide pointed to a tree, I spotted one hornbill, then another next to it, then another again and it continued. There were a big group of hornbills, never saw something like that before. That was just the beginning. As we started our walk through the depot, we saw a lot more. Our guide, a teacher working here part-time because of her interest in bird watching, was very helpful. She helped to spot the birds and identify them. She gave a broad picture of the life of Hornbills and how important they are to the ecosystem, their life and social behavior were quite interesting.
We can see four varieties of Hornbills there. I was not lucky enough to see them all. The Malabar pied hornbills were the show stoppers of the day. My guide taught me how to identify each variant and the difference between male and female. It was a great learning experience. She kept on talking about the nature and the coexistence between different species.
As a part of creating awareness and conservation of hornbills, the tourism department has started annual hornbill festival in Dandeli ( similar to that of Nagaland).
There are millions of things about nature which we still don’t know. We are not at all aware of anything even though we are the part of this nature. Just look at our surroundings, there is plenty to learn.
Syntheri rock is a must visit attraction in Dandeli
Best time to visit Dandeli
You can visit Dandeli all around the year.
In summer, this place will be dry and less green.
So I suggest, visit Dandeli during monsoon or during the months after that. The monsoons start by June. The crowd will be less during rains (people are still reluctant to get wet in the rains), you can have a pretty good time here.
How to reach Dandeli
Dandeli is well connected by roads from Bangalore, Mumbai, Karwar, Dharwad and Goa. Several buses ply between these places and Dandeli throughout the day.
If you are coming by train Hubli and Dharwad are nearest railway stations.
In my case, I was traveling from Chennai, left to Bangalore afternoon to reach there by night 9. From there, took a private bus to reach Dandeli in the morning. From there, Sanjay from Dandeli.com picked me to Old Magazine House. They took care of all my travel needs later on and dropped me back to the bus stand last day.
Things to know before you visit Dandeli
You can plan your trip to Dandeli for a weekend. Two days is enough unless you are very much interested in spending some quality time in nature.
River rafting in the Kali river is the best thing to do here. The availability of rafting depends on the availability of water in the river which again depends on whether the dam is open or not. So I would say, you need to be a little lucky. Rafting was not possible on the day after mine, those who came for it had to wait again one more day.
The cost of river rafting is 1350 INR, The cost will not be included in your package. You need to pay it extra.
Also, you need to pay extra to get photographs and videos of rafting. The photographs will cost you about 500 INR and the video will cost around 1500 INR (you can share the videos among others in the raft). The video will be taken by the instructor, so before paying for it, just check whether you got enough footage of yourselves.
Before planning your trip, get an idea about the package and the things that are included in it. Generally, the package will include food, forest trekking, bird watch, coracle ride, visit to Syntheri rocks, natural jacuzzi etc. It is better to ask whether anything is out of the package before deciding to go for it.
Make sure you make the arrangements for your transportation back to the bus station or railway station well in advance once you reach there itself. The places you stay will be quite far and it will help you to avoid last minute rush.
take a walk through the streets of Dandeli
My visit to Dandeli was arranged by Dandeli.com (click this link). They are the most popular tour operators in Dandeli. If you are planning a visit, just visit their website. Check out the packages and accommodation they provide. You can contact them through mail at [email protected] or over the phone at 9483940400
So that’s about the place, visit Dandeli and have a great time.
Do let me know if you have anything to ask, put your queries and suggestions as comments.
Months back, I was scrolling the feeds of a travel group in facebook which I regularly follow, there was a discussion going on about the Nilgiri mountain railway. I had already experienced the beauty and charm of this heritage mountain railway when I was a kid. The memory of that journey flashed through my mind.I was on a vacation with my parents. I remember myself eagerly looking out of the windows of this train along with hundreds of tourists packed in the compartment to get a glimpse of the views outside. It was very crowded that time. I could say that the journey would have been more beautiful if it was at least a little less crowded.
So now without any second thoughts, I decided to go again. Checked the availability of tickets for a weekend. To my least surprise, I got tickets for a day four months later. Well, that’s the interesting part of Indian railways. If you want a ticket in a train which is preferred by most, then you need to book it months in advance. Otherwise, the only option is to try your luck in the event called “Tatkal booking”, where millions of people in India desperately try to book tickets for their journey next day. I was happy to have the tickets.
After four months, on a weekend I started from Chennai, this time alone, to Mettupalayam. It is a small town located in the foothills of Nilgiri mountains. I reached Coimbatore early in the morning and then Mettupalayam an hour after. The train was waiting in the station, encasing the small station by steam in the occasional whistles. The train was full but not crowded.
Mettupalayam
A few minutes later, I was on the Nilgiri mountain railway whistling and moving through the beautiful mountains of Western Ghats, towards the most charming hill station in South India, Ooty. The train moved slowly in its own old rhythm. Everyone on the train was very excited and looking out to see the spectacular vistas ahead.
Getting into some history, the Nilgiri mountain railway was built by the British in 1908. It is a meter gauge railway line which uses the rack and pinion mechanism to help the train climb the steep hills. And the only railway track in India using this mechanism. It is the train which climbs the highest elevation in Asia. In the first stage, the railway was only built up to Coonoor. The track till Ooty was added later. The Darjeeling Himalayan railway in West Bengal is similar to Nilgiri mountain railway. In 2005, UNESCO has declared both as Heritage Mountain Railways of India. There are about 250 bridges and 16 tunnels on the 46 km journey between Mettupalayam and Ooty.
short break on the way
Travel in the Nilgiri mountain train itself is a history lesson. It still uses the old steam engine to climb the hills exactly like what was it before. We will hear the sound of the steam engine, that we still imitate holding our palms spread over our mouth. Currently, the steam engine is used between Coonoor and Mettupalayam. From Coonoor, a diesel engine will take us till Ooty.
Most of the passengers are tourists on the way to Ooty. The train slowly climbed the mountains leaving us completely immersed in the beauty of the mountains. I was sitting in the first compartment and there was nothing more I could wish. I had the best views from all sides. The bridges and tunnels on the ways are spectacular, stands elegantly showing the excellence of British engineering of that period.
Hillgrove station
There are few stations in between Coonoor and Mettupalayam but they are literally in the middle of the jungle. The stations are very old. There won’t be any passengers waiting for the train in those stations but few workers who do the maintenance checks for the engine. The steam engine has to fill water at regular intervals to keep it going. So the train stops for about 10-15 minutes at these stations.
I can say, the Nilgiri mountain railway is the best way to enjoy the beauty of Nilgiri mountains. The views of deep valleys and the mountains are stunning. These mountains are colorful everytime, the flowers which cover the canopy are vibrant.
I think instead of writing about the beauty of the mountains all the time, it is better to ask you travel in the Nilgiri mountain railways once and experience it.
Booking tickets for Nilgiri mountain railway
To have a comfortable and peaceful journey in the Nilgiri mountain railway, you need to book your tickets well in advance. Generally, the train will be full all the day and super crowded during weekends and public holidays. You can book tickets from the official website of IRCTC ( Indian railway catering and tourism corporation). The tickets will be available on the website 120 days before the journey. So you have to plan your journey four months in advance. The number of seats available in the train is very less. The train has one first-class compartment, two second-class compartment and general compartment. Since the number of seats even in the general compartment is very less, the chance of getting a seat without advance booking is very narrow.
The train (no: 56136) from Mettupalayam (MTP) to Udagamandalam (UAM) starts at 7.10 AM and reaches Ooty by 12 noon. The return train (no: 56137) starts by 2 PM from Ooty and reach Mettupalayam by 5.35 PM.
The ticket price for the first class compartment is INR 205 and for the second class is INR 40.
In case, you don’t have advance tickets, there are still chances to travel in the train. Try to reach the station very early, there will be a queue for the spot booking in general compartment. You will definitely get tickets if you are in front of the queue.
Few things to know about Nilgiri mountain railway
Coimbatore is the nearest city to reach Mettupalayam. From Coimbatore, it is just an hour journey in a bus. You will get buses to Mettupalayam every time from Coimbatore.
If you are planning the journey by train. The Nilgiri express is actually a connection train for the mountain train. From Chennai, the Nilgiri express will reach Coimbatore by 5.15 AM and Mettupalayam by 6.15 AM. If you can reach Coimbatore by the time the train reaches there, then it would be more easy to reach Mettupalayam station on time.
The Nilgiri mountain trains have service throughout the year. The mountains are beautiful every time of the year. Usually, the time after the monsoon, from August, is said to be the good time.
During summer months of April and May, there will be additional train services, starting from Mettupalayam at 09:30 AM and from Udhagamandalam at 12:15 PM.
Though the train journey is just 46 km, it will take almost 4-5 hours to reach your destination. So be ready for a long journey.
You can start from Ooty side also. Catch the afternoon train and reach Mettupalayam by evening, then to Coimbatore and back to your place.
Even though the train stops at many stations in between, there won’t be anything available there. So if you need something to have on the way, it is better to buy from either Mettupalayam, Coonoor or Ooty.
So that’s all about the Nilgiri mountain railway. Fix one date well in advance, book your tickets and just experience this beautiful train journey.
Also, read about the Nilgiri road trip, a trip you can plan which covers major destinations in these mountains.
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