jithin thomas – Page 3

by jithin thomas - April 8, 2018January 14, 2021

A journey in the Nilgiri mountain railway

Months back, I was scrolling the feeds of a travel group in facebook which I regularly follow, there was a discussion going on about the Nilgiri mountain railway. I had already experienced the beauty and charm of this heritage mountain railway when I was a kid. The memory of that journey flashed through my mind.I was on a vacation with my parents. I remember myself eagerly looking out of the windows of this train along with hundreds of tourists packed in the compartment to get a glimpse of the views outside. It was very crowded that time. I could say that the journey would have been more beautiful if it was at least a little less crowded.

So now without any second thoughts, I decided to go again. Checked the availability of tickets for a weekend. To my least surprise, I got tickets for a day four months later. Well, that’s the interesting part of Indian railways. If you want a ticket in a train which is preferred by most, then you need to book it months in advance. Otherwise, the only option is to try your luck in the event called “Tatkal booking”, where millions of people in India desperately try to book tickets for their journey next day. I was happy to have the tickets.

After four months, on a weekend I started from Chennai, this time alone, to Mettupalayam. It is a small town located in the foothills of Nilgiri mountains. I reached Coimbatore early in the morning and then Mettupalayam an hour after. The train was waiting in the station, encasing the small station by steam in the occasional whistles. The train was full but not crowded.

A few minutes later, I was on the Nilgiri mountain railway whistling and moving through the beautiful mountains of Western Ghats, towards the most charming hill station in South India, Ooty. The train moved slowly in its own old rhythm. Everyone on the train was very excited and looking out to see the spectacular vistas ahead.

Getting into some history, the Nilgiri mountain railway was built by the British in 1908. It is a meter gauge railway line which uses the rack and pinion mechanism to help the train climb the steep hills. And the only railway track in India using this mechanism. It is the train which climbs the highest elevation in Asia. In the first stage, the railway was only built up to Coonoor. The track till Ooty was added later. The Darjeeling Himalayan railway in West Bengal is similar to Nilgiri mountain railway. In 2005, UNESCO has declared both as Heritage Mountain Railways of India. There are about 250 bridges and 16 tunnels on the 46 km journey between Mettupalayam and Ooty.

Ooty mountain train — short break on the way

Travel in the Nilgiri mountain train itself is a history lesson. It still uses the old steam engine to climb the hills exactly like what was it before. We will hear the sound of the steam engine, that we still imitate holding our palms spread over our mouth. Currently, the steam engine is used between Coonoor and Mettupalayam. From Coonoor, a diesel engine will take us till Ooty.

Most of the passengers are tourists on the way to Ooty. The train slowly climbed the mountains leaving us completely immersed in the beauty of the mountains. I was sitting in the first compartment and there was nothing more I could wish. I had the best views from all sides. The bridges and tunnels on the ways are spectacular, stands elegantly showing the excellence of British engineering of that period.

There are few stations in between Coonoor and Mettupalayam but they are literally in the middle of the jungle. The stations are very old. There won’t be any passengers waiting for the train in those stations but few workers who do the maintenance checks for the engine. The steam engine has to fill water at regular intervals to keep it going. So the train stops for about 10-15 minutes at these stations.

I can say, the Nilgiri mountain railway is the best way to enjoy the beauty of Nilgiri mountains. The views of deep valleys and the mountains are stunning. These mountains are colorful everytime, the flowers which cover the canopy are vibrant.

I think instead of writing about the beauty of the mountains all the time, it is better to ask you travel in the Nilgiri mountain railways once and experience it.

Booking tickets for Nilgiri mountain railway

To have a comfortable and peaceful journey in the Nilgiri mountain railway, you need to book your tickets well in advance. Generally, the train will be full all the day and super crowded during weekends and public holidays. You can book tickets from the official website of IRCTC ( Indian railway catering and tourism corporation). The tickets will be available on the website 120 days before the journey. So you have to plan your journey four months in advance. The number of seats available in the train is very less. The train has one first-class compartment, two second-class compartment and general compartment. Since the number of seats even in the general compartment is very less, the chance of getting a seat without advance booking is very narrow.

The train (no: 56136) from Mettupalayam (MTP) to Udagamandalam (UAM) starts at 7.10 AM and reaches Ooty by 12 noon. The return train (no: 56137) starts by 2 PM from Ooty and reach Mettupalayam by 5.35 PM.

The ticket price for the first class compartment is INR 205 and for the second class is INR 40.

In case, you don’t have advance tickets, there are still chances to travel in the train. Try to reach the station very early, there will be a queue for the spot booking in general compartment. You will definitely get tickets if you are in front of the queue.

Few things to know about Nilgiri mountain railway

Coimbatore is the nearest city to reach Mettupalayam. From Coimbatore, it is just an hour journey in a bus. You will get buses to Mettupalayam every time from Coimbatore.

If you are planning the journey by train. The Nilgiri express is actually a connection train for the mountain train. From Chennai, the Nilgiri express will reach Coimbatore by 5.15 AM and Mettupalayam by 6.15 AM. If you can reach Coimbatore by the time the train reaches there, then it would be more easy to reach Mettupalayam station on time.

The Nilgiri mountain trains have service throughout the year. The mountains are beautiful every time of the year. Usually, the time after the monsoon, from August, is said to be the good time.

During summer months of April and May, there will be additional train services, starting from Mettupalayam at 09:30 AM and from Udhagamandalam at 12:15 PM.

Though the train journey is just 46 km, it will take almost 4-5 hours to reach your destination. So be ready for a long journey.

You can start from Ooty side also. Catch the afternoon train and reach Mettupalayam by evening, then to Coimbatore and back to your place.

Even though the train stops at many stations in between, there won’t be anything available there. So if you need something to have on the way, it is better to buy from either Mettupalayam, Coonoor or Ooty.

So that’s all about the Nilgiri mountain railway. Fix one date well in advance, book your tickets and just experience this beautiful train journey.

Also, read about the Nilgiri road trip, a trip you can plan which covers major destinations in these mountains.

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by jithin thomas - March 18, 2018January 14, 2021

Trek to Vellagavi, a sacred village in the mountains of Kodaikanal

Before writing about my recent trek to Vellagavi, I would like to take your attention to something which I feel very important. Ever since I began to take travel blogging seriously, I was very much aware of the impact my posts have on the places I write about. I had gone through the dilemma many times, whether to write about a place or not.

Nowadays, we all are traveling with a mindset to find out something unique and be the first to experience it. I would say, social media has changed the way we travel. We all enjoy the thrill and excitement of getting more likes and comments on every new post we put out there.

“Unexplored places and offbeat destinations” has become a trend in travel and tourism industry. Even multi-million corporates are looking to find new potential tourism markets. Ecotourism, tribal tourism, sustainable tourism are the hot topics in the industry. People are desperate to try something new all the time. As this trend is going up, it is time to think how it affects the socio-economic scenarios of those places which are coming up as new tourism hot spots.

For example, till recently, the Spiti valley in Himachal Pradesh was a less touristy and peaceful place in the upper Himalayas. The people of Spiti are very friendly and loving. But since tourism started to grow there, everything changed there. More people started to come and the valley became more commercialized now. The authenticity of the people and the culture will be lost very soon. Pollution is now a major issue in the valley. The Spiti river, the lifeline of the valley became a garbage dumping ground. I won’t be able to see the same Spiti valley again as it is when I visited last year. In few years, Spiti valley will become a typical Himalayan tourist place like McLeodganj or Manali. You know what I mean if you have been to these places.

Vellagavi village trekk — trail starts from Dolphin Nose

To be frank, as a travel writer, sometimes I feel regret for being responsible for all in some way. Many times I was confused whether to write about some of my journeys. I know that, once it becomes known to everyone, the place which I love for its uniqueness and the people won’t be the same again. Everyone who travels may not have the same mindset. Some will be very careful not to do any harm to the environment and the people living there. But some are totally opposite. And it’s not in our hands.

If I write about these issues, those reading my blog will at least think about it and will be conscious about traveling in a better way. It is not at all bad to explore new places and new experiences. But we need to be cautious, we have to be responsible. We should respect the nature. Our journeys should not have a negative impact on the people. For example, if we go to a village and ask for a mineral water bottle, we are creating a demand for bottled water there. Shops will stock those bottles and people coming after you buy them. Next time, when you go there, you see plastic bottles scattered all around. This is what happens everywhere now.

With a belief that, everyone who reads this will think seriously about this, I introduce you Vellagavi, a small and beautiful village in Kodaikanal. A very remote village, not connected by roads. A village with good-hearted people. People there consider their village very sacred and do not use footwear. It is one of the best places I traveled recently. The trek to Vellagavi was a great experience. More than the mountains and nature, it was the people of Vellagavi, their affection and their innocent smiles that I cherish always. For two days, we were not outsiders, we became one among them.

Kodaikanal is one place I wish to travel quite often. Every time, it was not the same places and experiences. My love for the villages in Kodaikanal started after my visit to Kookal. A few years back, when I was with my friends in Vattakanal, we noticed a trail going down from Dolphin nose. Later found out that the trail leads to a village called Vellagavi. More information about the village and people there increased my curiosity, I was waiting for the right time for the trek to Vellagavi.

So as usual, on a weekend, I boarded the bus to Kodaikanal. One of my friends also joined me from Kodai. Started the walk from Kodaikanal, first reached Vattakanal. There is a short road from Kodaikanal to Vattakanal actually, it will take about 20 minutes walk to reach and can save you some money paying for the taxi.

Vattakanal is also an example of the changes unplanned and irresponsible tourism brought to a place over years. Two years back, when I first came here, this place was beautiful. Not many buildings, not much traffic on the road and it was beautiful. It is not the same now. Didn’t feel like spending time there at all. Brought some food from the grocery shop and started walking to Dolphin nose.

Dolphin nose is a major tourist attraction in Kodaikanal. You need to walk down about 30 minutes from Vattakanal to reach Dolphin nose. Till Dolphin nose, there will be people all the time. From there, we found the trail going further down and began our trek to Vellagavi.

vellagavi village — one of the many temples

The major part of the trail goes through the forest. The forests of the Western Ghats are magical. There are many flowers on the way this time. The sound and smell of the forest were peaceful as usual. Some foreigners were hiking back after visiting the village, they were struggling to climb those steep mountains.

Later, we started seeing the villagers collecting wood from the forest. With a smiling face, they welcomed us and showed the way to the village. The last stretch of the walk was little fast, we saw Vellagavi from a distance. There was a temple at the entrance itself, a big banyan tree on the side. I could feel the positive vibe of the village from the entrance itself, removed my shoes and entered the village.

Whoever we saw, greeted us and asked whether we need some tea. The kids immediately began running around, playing and made fun of us. We were invited to every house there. I should say, from some of the houses, we get the best views of the valley. They are placed at picturesque locations.

There are no roads to Vellagavi. The people of the village use the same trail to reach Kodaikanal. They have to come here to sell their crops and buy essential items. Further down from Vellagavi, the trail goes to Kumbakarai, a village at the bottom of the hills. We used that route for our return next day. Britisher’s used this trail to transport good from Kodaikanal. The trail from Kumabakarai to Kodaikanal is a famous trekking route, many people do this trek especially foreigners. This is also the part of trek route between Munnar and Kodaikanal.

The village of Vellagavi has 50 houses and more temples. Whichever direction you go, you find idols. These people came here during the time of Tipu Sultan and later formed an isolated community in the mountains. They worship many gods here. They consider their village very sacred. Till recently, nobody in the village use footwears inside the village. And even visitors are not allowed. But now, they don’t show any reluctance to outsiders.

People here are mostly farmers, coffee and avocado are the major crops they produce here. Every morning, few horses will climb the mountain to Kodaikanal to bring the necessary goods to the people. There is a primary school up to 5th standard, after that, they need to go to Kodaikanal or Periyakulam for education. Most of the young people in the village are working outside now. What I found very interesting here is that people are very healthy. Even a 90-year-old doesn’t look like that much old.

Found a place to pitch our tents little away. The night was stary, as usual in Kodaikanal, one of the main reason for my love towards this place.

The next day, started our trek down to Periyakulam. It was much steep compared to the trail from Kodaikanal. About 2 hours walk, reached Kumbakarai. And then back to our normal lives. It was another weekend spend very well. A new place, new people and some more memories.

Trek to Vellagavi, How?

You can do this trek in different ways. You can start from Kodaikanal, walk down to Dolphin nose and then to Vellagavi. If you don’t want to spend the night there, you can walk back and stay in Vattakanal.

The next option is as we did. Trek to Vellagavi from Kodaikanal, stay there for the night and trek down to Kumbakarai, then to Periyakulam and Dindigul. You will get buses to all major places from Dindigul. Both state transport bus and private bus services are available to Chennai and Bangalore.

Kumbakarai has a very small waterfall, once you reach there ask someone to show the bus stop and the bus timings. Buses are not frequent but available. Otherwise, you will get autos from there to reach Periakulam. From Periyakulam ( between Theni-Dindigul highway), you will get buses to Dindigul, Palani or Madurai. You can plan your journey back from any of these places.

I have seen few people trek to Vellagavi from Kumbakarai and then up to Kodaikanal. In this case, the trek will be a bit difficult, the trail is steep all the way till Kodai.

Food and accommodation

Food is not at all a problem here. The people of Vellagavi will not allow you to stay hungry. They will definitely invite you to have food from their house. They really care for us. Also, there is a cafe in the village. Murugesan who is running the cafe is ready to help you with anything all the time.

If you are planning to stay in Vellagavi village, tents are the only option. They are available in the cafe.

Trek to Vellagavi; few things to know

There is only one shop in the village. It is not a proper shop, a person runs it in his home. You may not get everything there, so it is better to buy them from Vattakanal before the start of the trek.

The village will go to sleep by around 7 PM, it will be quiet after that. So talking loudly and playing loud music is not good.

As I said before, there are temples and idols all over the village, showing disrespect to them may hurt the feelings of the people.

Nowadays, many trekking agencies are organizing two days trek between Munnar and Kodaikanal. The stretch from Kumabakarai to Kodaikanal is the one that covers on the second day.

For me, the only expense was the bus fare and the food. Since I carried my tent, saved some money that way. Excluding transportation expenses, the trek to Vellagavi can be done with a really small budget.

We cannot imagine a place where there is no road connectivity, but there are still people living in such places. They live happier than us. What I understood from the people of Vellagavi is that it is not the facilities that make our life happy, it is just the goodness of our mind.

Hope your trek to Vellagavi will be a great experience.

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by jithin thomas - February 21, 2018January 14, 2021

Things to do in Mahabalipuram-travel guide

So this time, am writing about a place which is very near to where I live-Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram, an easy getaway 60 km from Chennai. I have been living in Chennai for almost 2 years now. I don’t know why it took this much time to write about this place even though I visited Mahabalipuram many times. Though a small town, there are lots of places to see and things to do in Mahabalipuram. It is a prominent tourist location in South India presently. The ease of access and the facilities available here attracts travelers of all groups from around the world.

Mahabalipuram is a beach town which has a long history. It was a major port during the period of Pallava kings, who ruled major part of Tamil Nadu in the 7th and 8th century. Trade flourished at that time. This place has mentioned in literature and travelogues which date backs to centuries. Pallava kings built magnificent temples and buildings in this port town to show their glory, which can be still seen here.

Mahabalipuram is a perfect weekend destination, very easy to reach from either Chennai or Pondicherry. You can spend some quality time on the pristine beaches, visit the rock-cut temples and monuments. Apart from these, if you are ready to explore more in Mahabalipuram, there are many things you can experience here.

Coming to the significance of Mahabalipuram, everywhere you go, you can see centuries-old monuments. It is spread out all around the town. Excavations are revealing many more such monuments now also. Most of them are under the control of Archaeological Survey of India, a government body responsible for the conservation and restoration of archaeological monuments.

The shore temple and the cave temples are the major attractions in Mahabalipuram.

The five “rathas” (small shrines that resemble chariots) carved out from a single stone is another interesting structure here. They are monolithic structures built by carving from top to bottom. Each of the “rathas” is dedicated to the five Pandava brothers in the epic Mahabharata.

Another such monument is Arjuna’s penance, It is one thing you should not miss in Mahabalipuram. You can find it without much effort when you enter into the monument complex behind the bus stand. There is a difference in opinions among historians about the sculpture. This sculpture is the largest of its kind in Asia. It is beautiful. It looks like a painting on a big canvas. This is a must visit place in Mahabalipuram.

You can find many other monuments in and around the city.

You will get a lot of information about the history, archaeological importance, about the caves temples and ancient monuments in Mahabalipuram from the internet. Reading about the same thing again and again will be boring for you. So I am skipping them.Many of us still think that Mahabalipuram is only about the rock-cut monuments. That is not the case. There are many things here, which can make your visit to this beautiful place more interesting and memorable.

So, What to do in Mahabalipuram?

The scenic East Coast Road

The main reason why I like to go Mahabalipuram frequently is because of the East Coast Road (ECR) which connects Chennai with Pondicherry. I must say, it is one of the most scenic roads in India. The roads go parallel to the Bay of Bengal. So one side, it will be sea and on the other, it will be the vast salt lakes. From the road, there are many pocket roads which go to the beach. You can just sit on the beach for hours and enjoy the wind. All these beaches are less crowded. You won’t find anyone on these beaches actually.

Surfing

Planning to learn a new sport?

Then the best thing to do in Mahabalipuram is to learn surfing.

Nowadays, surfing is gaining popularity in this region. The beaches of the east coast have become a favorite surfing destination. There are many surf schools functioning in Chennai and Mahabalipuram. It is attracting surf enthusiasts from around the world. Many international surf festivals are happening here every year. If you have some days here and want to try something different, then joining a surf class will be a good idea.

The sculptors

When you reach Mahabalipuram, you will see small shacks on roadsides in which people are engaged in rock sculptures. They are the descendants of the artists who worked for those great monuments of Mahabalipuram. They are continuing their family profession now also.

If you like to walking, the best thing to do in Mahabalipuram is to walk through the inner streets. You will find a lot of brilliant artists.

Though the methods and technology of sculpting are more much different from the ancient times, it is an art which requires extremely good skills. The fine details and the complexity of those sculptures is something that needs good skills.

Export of this sculptures is a big business here.

Many artists conduct workshops for those having interest in learning to sculpture.

Seafood

When it comes to seafood, you will get the best seafood here in Mahabalipuram compared to the nearby places. There are many restaurants which serve seafood dishes. They are not that costly. You can find many good restaurants in “ Othavadai street”.

Krishna’s Butterball

This is the one thing that fascinates me all the time in Mahabalipuram. A major attraction in Mahabalipuram, Krishna’s Butterball is a large spherical rock which stands perfectly balanced on the edge of another rock. It has overcome the test of time and push of almost all those who came here. The reason behind such a perfect balancing is still a mystery.

krishna butter ball — the balancing butterball

A photograph of yours try pushing Krishna’s Butterball is mandatory in Mahabalipuram.

Kids coming here are more interested to slide down over the smooth rock nearby butterball.

The bird’s eye view from the lighthouse

The lighthouse in Mahabalipuram is still a functioning one and significant in this region to guide ships. There was an ancient lighthouse nearby, built by the Pallavas kings. You can have the view of entire Mahabalipuram from the top of the lighthouse. The lighthouse is inside the main monument complex, near to the cave temples. It is open from 6 AM to 6 PM. it will close before sunset, otherwise, it would be the perfect place to see the sunset.

Sunset from the Shore temple

shore temple Mahabalipuram — shore temple

Sunsets from the shore temple are stunning. It is believed that the kings built seven such temples along the coast. Only one is remaining now, rest of them are believed to be under water. The tsunami of 2004 has exposed few of the structures under the sea. Underwater excavations after that lead to many interesting findings.

When I go to Mahabalipuram, I try to be there at the shore temple before sunset and find a perfect place to sit, watch the sunset and end the day.

How to reach Mahabalipuram

Mahabalipuram is very near to Chennai ( about 60 km). An hour drive from Chennai will take you there. You can also reach Mahabalipuram from Pondicherry (100 km). There are frequent buses between Chennai and Pondicherry, you can get down at Mahabalipuram. The nearest airport and railway station are Chennai, from there you can hire a taxi or use public transport to reach Mahabalipuram.

Another best way to experience Mahabalipuram is by cycling. You can ride from Chennai through ECR, the ride will be worth, and can extend up to Pondicherry also.

Few things to keep in mind

Mahabalipuram is a hot place throughout the year. Exploring the ancient monuments means you need to walk in the hot sun. So better prepare for that. It is better to take a cap or umbrella.

You will find stone sculptures for sale all over the place. Definitely, you feel like buying something as a memory of your Mahabalipuram trip. Be a little careful regarding the prices, negotiate your maximum. If you are not getting for the price, don’t worry, you will definitely get it for less price in another shop.

There are few places on the way to Mahabalipuram from Chennai which you can visit. Kovalam is a small fishing village about 20 km from Chennai. The beaches are very good, apt for surfing. There are few surf schools in Kovalam also.

The Madras Crocodile bank, one of the largest crocodile conservation center in India, is another place you can visit. This park has many crocodiles varieties, turtles, and other reptiles.

Tiger’s cave is another monument little far from Mahabalipuram. You can stop here on the way to Chennai.

The monuments in Mahabalipuram are under Archaeological Survey of India. With one ticket you can visit all the monuments. The ticket price is 30 INR for Indians and 500 INR for non-Indians. The monuments will open for visitors from 6 AM to 6.30 PM.

Mahabalipuram is a very small place. All the important places are nearby. The best way to experience Mahabalipuram is taking a walk. There is no need of hiring any taxis to roam around. Better use early mornings and evenings to explore the place, it will be sunny otherwise. You can rent out cycles also for your local travel.

If you are planning a cycling trip to Mahabalipuram, definitely a good idea. You can hire cycles from Chennai. As I said before, the road is very pristine. On weekends, you will find many cyclists riding through this road between Chennai and Mahabalipuram. It is better to start very early in the morning and roam around the city for rest of the day.

So that’s all about Mahabalipuram. It is a must visit place in Tamil Nadu. You can include Mahabalipuram on your visit to Pondicherry also.

If you are interested in history and archeology, then a visit to Kanchipuram will be really good. Kanchipuram is also a temple town nearer to Chennai, built by the Pallava kings.

I hope you liked the post, if so, please share it on social media to reach more people. It will be very helpful for the growth of this blog.

If you want to go for a trek from Chennai, the head to Nagalapuram falls about 120 km from the city.

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by jithin thomas - January 28, 2018January 14, 2021

A visit to Dhanushkodi, the abandoned village of Tamil Nadu

When I first traveled to Dhanushkodi three years back, it was a place a bit difficult to reach. The bus service was only up to the village. From there we had to travel in local vans and then walk around 4 km to reach the so-called endpoint, the narrow strip of land which concludes between the bay of Bengal and the Indian ocean. The journey was itself thrilling, there was literally no road, we had to travel through land submerged in water. Only few people used to visit Dhanushkodi, mostly up to the ruins of “ ghost village” and do not venture to walk to the land’s end in the hot sun.

But everything changed now, a new road was built, up to the end. There are buses from Rameshwaram which will drop you at the tip of the land. More people visit here daily now. And of course, more plastic and wastes on the beach which was once very clean and beautiful. I couldn’t find the charm once I felt there when it was untouched. Anyway, we have to accept the reality, we should not turn our back when it comes to development. But I can say that Dhanushkodi was much beautiful before. Those who have not visited there before missed a beautiful experience.

After spending a day, exploring the village and the people, I realized, though there is better infrastructure now, the development has brought only little changes in the life of remaining fishermen living here. Their life is same as before, the village is still abandoned; no electricity, no schools or hospitals. Their life is struck by the memories that we forgot long back but still alive in their hearts even after 40 years.

Actually, my journey to Dhanushkodi was mainly with an intention to once more travel through the submerged land. But it is not possible now. Reached Rameshwaram early morning and took the first bus to Dhanushkodi. The sun was just coming up, the bus moved towards Dhanushkodi. The villages were still sleeping, there were only fewer vehicles on the road. The climate was cool and perfect. Both sides of the roads gave some beautiful views.

I could recollect few landmarks. After a 40 minute journey from Rameshwaram, the bus reached its last stop. The morning was amazing, spend some good time on the beaches. People were already there though it was only 6.45 AM in the morning. Dhanushkodi is a holy place for Hindu religion, more people come here to do the final rituals for the next life well being of their expired ones.

Dhanushkodi has been part of many myths and also one of the biggest catastrophes in the history of India. More than that the beaches of Dhanushkodi are extraordinarily beautiful. Geographically, it is the place where Bay of Bengal and Indian ocean meets. When you face towards the sea, the sea on your right side is Indian ocean, with rough waves and that on your left is the Bay of Bengal, comparatively calm. The depth of water here is very low, you can walk into the sea and feel the two oceans on your sides. The color of the sea is turquoise here, you will never get bored watching the waves.

visit dhanushkodi — in the middle of two oceans

The strip of land that stretches into the sea is believed to be “Ram Sethu”, according to Hindu mythology, a bridge built by Lord Rama on his way to the island country, Sri Lanka. Currently, researchers are supporting the story of this man-made bridge. We can see many small land strips on the sea which could be the part of the bridge. Sri Lanka is just 18 km from Dhanushkodi. Quite often the fishermen here are arrested by Sri Lankan coast guard for crossing the sea limit unknowingly. Sometimes, you get telephone network from Sri Lanka in your phones. Lighthouses from the other side are also visible at night.

Dhanushkodi was developed as a port during the British rule, to facilitate the movement of goods from India and Sri Lanka. The tea produced from Sri Lanka and the spices from India were shipped to Europe from here. Dhanushkodi was well connected by railways to other parts of the country. There was a boat service from here to Sri Lanka. During that time, many Tamil people were taken to work in Sri Lankan tea plantations. They later became a big community there and the civil war between the Tamils and Sinhalese ended up in a big bloodshed.

As more people began to come and there was nothing more left to do there, I picked up my bag and started walking back, towards the village. The village has a tragic story to tell. 40 years back, on December 23rd, 1964, a cyclone hit Dhanushkodi (a port city then) taking 1800 lives and the entire town under water. Though the cyclone lasted for an only short time, the devastation was huge. What we see now is just a small portion of a big city. It is shrunk to a small village now.

The government of India had officially declared Dhanushkodi as a “ghost village” which means it is not good for living. But still, people live here. Some of the villagers told me that sea has come 3 kilometers into the land and an entire town is still under water. During the tsunami of 2004, when the sea withdrew backward, they saw the old town under the sea.

I got the chance to be with the fishermen while they were on their work. As I was walking, saw them pulling out the fishing nets from the sea. The net was so big and it took hours to pull it completely to the shore. I joined them and stayed there till they finished their work. They briefed how to put the nets, how to pull it and what kind of fish they get. The final stage of pulling was little hard since the catch for the day was pretty good. People from around came together to help them. When everything was over.

Dhanushkodi village — the fishermen of Dhanushkodi

A walk through the village will slowly dissolve you into its story. Around 500 people, most of them fishermen lives here, they stay in huts. Since this village is declared as abandoned, electricity is not there. There are no new buildings. The ruins are spread all over. You can see remains of the church, post office, railway station, medical college, water tank, hospital and many others which still stands even after 40 years.

People here extremely friendly, if we start talking to them, they will share their stories. Each one has a personal story to tell. The seniors in their families are the direct witness of the incidents happened during the cyclone.You can even find people who survived the cyclone.

It was evening when I returned back to Rameshwaram. The village stood behind me, as an example of human survival and optimism. It shows how capable we are, to forget our bitter past, to overcome whatever comes before us and move forward. As we say, life must go on.

The east coast of India has many beautiful places, you can visit Mahabalipuram, a heritage beach town very near to Chennai.

How to reach Dhanushkodi

Dhanushkodi is well connected by roads and railways. There are frequent bus services from major cities of Tamil Nadu. From Chennai, buses operate in every 30 minutes. Currently, there are two daily trains from Chennai which reach Rameswaram by morning. From the railway station, there are shuttle bus services to bus stand and Rameswaram temple. There will be autorickshaws outside the station all the time, just look for the bus before getting into rickshaws, that will be very economical.

To go Dhanushkodi, get down at the temple, from there you will get the bus (route no:3). The first bus starts by around 6.15 AM. If you catch that bus, you can reach there early and spend some good time there. There are buses towards Dhanushkodi between every 30 minutes. The last bus from Dhanushkodi is at 5.30 PM. It is better to check the bus timings once you reach there.

Apart from buses, you will get autos and taxis from Rameshwaram to reach Dhanushkodi.

The roads towards Dhanushkodi is scenic, perfect for a road trip. You can also plan for a drive, it will be a great experience.

Things to do in Dhanushkodi

I would suggest, the best thing to do in Dhanushkodi is the sunrise. If you reach there early, you can see a beautiful sunrise.

Sunsets are also very beautiful here.

You can go up to to the end of the strip of land and experience both the oceans on your sides.

Dhanushkodi is a long beach with soft sand, walk as much you want.

The village of Dhanushkodi is about 4 km before the end of the road. If you love fishes, then try having meals from the shops here. You will get many fish varieties, crabs, prawns etc.

On the way to Dhanushkodi, there are so many beautiful beaches. You can get down and spend some time.

The Kodantha Ramar temple is a good place to visit, it is on the way. Buses will stop near the temple.

Things to do in Rameshwaram

Rameshwaram is a major pilgrim town in South India. The temple here is very famous. The major attraction is the longest corridor of the temple. They have beautiful paintings on its wall. The town will be busy with pilgrims most of the time.

One of the greatest personality India has seen and our former President, Dr.A.P.J Abdul Kalam was born in Rameshwaram. His house is now a museum and opens to the public all day.

Pamban bridge ( Anna Indira Gandhi bridge) is also a must visit in Rameshwaram. To reach the bridge, you have to catch a bus that goes via this bridge and get down at the stop just before the bridge. Buses are available from the bus stand. Sunsets are amazing from here.

The Pamban railway bridge is also nearby. It was built during the British period, destroyed during the cyclone. But the bridge is reconstructed very fast. You will get a good view of trains passing through the rail bridge from the road bridge. If you are there for sunset, there is a train which passes the bridge around 6.30 PM.

There are many other places of religious importance in Rameshwaram. You can extend one more day and visit all these places. A weekend is enough to visit Dhanushkodi and Rameshwaram.

Few things to know before you visit Dhanushkodi

Weather in Dhanushkodi will be hot and sunny throughout. Prepare in advance to be in sun for a long time. It will get extremely hot after 10 AM in the morning. So reach as early as possible.

Carry enough food and water since there are no shops other than few people selling snacks.

For lunch, you have to reach the village. Fish meals are available everywhere. Just confirm the price before ordering your food.

As per my knowledge, police will not allow visitors to stay in Dhanushkodi beach after 6 PM.

Accommodation facilities are not available in Dhanushkodi, you have to come back to Rameshwaram. There are plenty of hotels available there in every category.

Dhanushkodi is an experience. You can plan to visit Dhanushkodi on a weekend. The beaches are one of the best in the country and also geographically significant. It is getting polluted at a faster rate. Even if it is for the religious purpose, dumping of clothes and other things on the beach are not something acceptable. Gradually, this pollution may affect the life of the fishermen. So be a little wise and responsible. We have to keep our places clean and beautiful.

Have a great time in Dhanushkodi.

If you wish to explore more places in Tamil Nadu, read about Thiruvannamalai and Kanchipuram.

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by jithin thomas - January 8, 2018January 14, 2021

Guide to Kumara Parvatha trek

Since the Western ghats started to allure me like anything, I never said no to any chance to go and explore those mountains. I wanted to complete some few treks in the Western ghats before the end of 2017. Trekking Baba Budangiri hills, Kodachadri hills and Chokramudi hills were some of them. And finally, the Kumara Parvatha trek happened in the last month of the year.

The role Western ghats plays in the life and culture of people living here was very significant, which point out the need to protect them. The exclusive biodiversity of these mountains are very delicate, it has to be taken care very seriously. More than a trek, each trail was a learning experience for me. Hope I can explore more and tell you many interesting stories this year also.

I came to know about Kumara Parvatha trek from one of my colleagues. Since then, I was waiting for the perfect time to do the trek. Tried to trek Kumara Parvatha during the monsoons, but the officials were not allowing that time. So waited for the monsoon to get over.

Kumara Parvatha trek is one of the most known treks in the Western Ghats, very famous in the internet and social media these days. Even though it is a bit difficult for the amateurs, many people come here, especially during the weekends. Many adventure companies organise Kumara Parvatha trek, mostly from Bangalore.

The trekking can be done from two sides, from Somwarpet and from Kukke Subramanya. So we decided to ascend through one trail and descend through the other, to not miss anything on the way. Came to know that, the entry through Somwarpet side is comparatively easy and less crowded. The trail starting from the other side, Kukke Subramanya is long and very steep. So we picked Somwarpet as our starting point, did all the bus and train bookings from Chennai to reach Somwarpet on a Saturday morning.

The villages of Karnataka on the Western Ghats are very beautiful. Somwarpet is not an exception. It is serene and colourful. We began our walk from Beedehalli exactly, entered to the Pushpagiri forest region after taking tickets from the forest check post. A couple of other groups were also on the trail. The trail goes through forest initially and later as we go up, the forest gave way to tall grasses. There are boards on the trail, indicating the direction and the distance to the top. Since we were walking through the forest, the sun was not a problem. Few streams on the way provide drinking water. The difficult part of this trail was two places where we have to climb steep rocks. It was little tricky, and some people will find it difficult. Other than that, this trail can be completed without much effort.

We reached the top of Kumara Parvatha after a 4-hour hike. There were other groups also, who came from the other side. Spend some time at the top, the view from there was amazing. We had to come down fast to reach the camping site before it gets dark. On the way, there are few other view points. The sunset from Shesha Parvatha, another peak on the trail, is magical. We had to walk another 7 km to reach the base. It was getting dark slowly. All started to return immediately after sunset. The trail we were taking was very steep, coming down was not easy. It took us more time to reach the base camp.

We pitched our tents for the night, had our dinner from the Bhattaru mane and slept tired because of the long walk. The next day, started walking down to Kukke Subramanya early in the morning.

How to start Kumara Parvatha trek

As I said earlier, there are two trails for Kumara Parvatha trek. The choice is yours, the trail from Beedehalli side is easier compared to the trail from Kukke Subramanya side. From both entrances, you have to pay 350 INR ( Indians) and 1000 INR (foreigners). Once you enter the forest, you have to exit any of the checkpoint same day itself. The officers will be keeping a record of those who entered the forest.

To reach Beedehalli, catch a bus which goes via Somwarpet. I took a Madikeri (Coorg) bus from Banglore which dropped me in Somwarpet by around 5.30 morning. From Somwarpet, you can catch the very first bus to Beedehalli at around 7.30 AM from the private bus stand which is very near to KSRTC bus stand.

The bus will drop you at its last stop, from where you have to walk about an hour to reach the Pushpagiri forest range check post. Taxis are also available from Somwarpet which will drop you very nearer to the check post. It will save some time.

If starting from the other side, Kukke Subramanya, buses are available from Banglore and other major cities of Karnataka. Kukke Subramanya is a temple town. From Kukke, the entrance to the trail is about 1 km. It will take about 15 mins walk to reach there. You have to trek about 7 km from the entrance to reach the forest check post. The procedure is same there also. The trail goes through the forest. From the check post, Kumara Parvatha is another 7 km, which makes total 14 km. So based on convenience, you can start from any of the entry points.

Accommodation during Kumara Parvatha trek

Due to the increase in the number of people coming for the trek, forest officers are not permitting tenting or camping nowadays. The guards won’t allow you to carry tents after the check post. There are camping areas near the forest check post.

Another option for stay during Kumara Parvatha trek is the “Bhattara mane” ( temple priest’s house). You will get a place to sleep by advance booking. Food is also available there. The chances to find a room is very less during weekends. So is better to carry tents. “Bhattaru mane” and forest office are the only options if you need to use the toilet.

Few things to know

People trek to Kumara Parvatha in different ways. Like we did, you can start from Beedehalli, descend through the other side on the same day and spend the night in the camp, trek back to Kukke Subramanya next day. It will take two days.

The next option is starting from the Kukke side, trek up to forest check post first day, camp there for the night, trek again up to Kumara Parvatha and come back to the camp, then back to Kukke on the next day. This will be less difficult but takes three days.

You can trek up to Kumara Parvatha and come back to camp for the night on the same day also. In this case, the total distance to cover will be 21 km, it will be little painful for your muscles.

During weekends and other holidays, the camping ground will be super crowded. So if you are late to reach back to the camp from the top, the chances to find a proper place to pitch tents are minimum.

It is always better to start your descend as early as possible. Compared to climbing up, coming down is more difficult and take more time. Walking in the night is not advisable.

Carry your water bottle, there are few streams on the way to collect water. You have to burn more energy during the trek, so carry enough energy bars or food.

Other than Kumara Parvatha, the trail has one more peak called Shesha Parvatha and few view points. The views from the top will definitely make you feel happy.

In a way, trekking is a challenge we put ourselves against our own body and mind. It is about understanding our physical and emotional strength. The positive feel of completing a trek is definitely going to lift up our spirits. You feel more confident. And moreover, trekking is an opportunity to see this beautiful earth. It helps to create a commitment towards our mother nature. So use the time you spend outdoors for understanding ourself as a part of this whole universe, make a connection with our surroundings and be grateful for everything we have.

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by jithin thomas - December 21, 2017January 14, 2021

Vilpatti, a lesser known village in Kodaikanal

Though I travel to Kodaikanal very often, I never prefered to stay in the same place twice. Every time I try to visit a new place. I visited Kookal once, a village far away from the city and fell instantly in love with the beauty of the village. From then onwards, whenever I go to Kodai, villages are my favourite destination other than crowded and boring tourist spots. This time, my destination in Kodaikanal was Vilpatti, a village very near to the town but very beautiful. There is nothing much to do or see in Vilpatti. If you are a person who doesn’t want to fall in the tourist traps of Kodaikanal, who likes to spend some time in a peaceful place, who adores forests, sunsets and the misty mountains; then Vilpatti would not disappoint you.

Vilpatti is a panchayath which includes few other hamlets like Kuridasimeth, Kovilpatti, Pallangi etcetera. Agriculture is the main economic activity in this area, the crops include potatoes, beans and vegetables. Steep hills are turned into farmlands by step farming.

I reached Kodaikanal on a Saturday morning. From there, another 30 minutes journey took me to Kovilpatti, a small settlement very close to Vilpatti. Last time when I came to Kodaikanal, I visited Kurusadimeth, which is on the other side of the mountains.

The climate was cold since it is winter. I spend the day roaming around the village. Occasionally fog came and wrapped the valley, bite me with a sudden chill. Watching the valley getting clear after the fog is scenic.

The evening was magical, the sky turned into a beautiful canvas of colours. My cottage was on top of a hill, I got the best views of the whole valley. As it turned night, millions of stars lit up in the sky. It was beautiful. In Kodaikanal, I always had the best night sky. Sitting with friends around the fire and watching those stars is my favourite thing to do here.

The people here in these mountains are very friendly, another reason for my love for these villages. Unlike in the town, where we are often chased by taxi drivers and tour guides, in the villages, we are completely free. The people in the village will welcome us wholeheartedly, share their stories and we feel like the part of the village. It was little difficult for me to come back.

How to reach Vilpatti

Vilpatti is just 7 km from Kodaikanal. It is very easy to reach. Buses are very frequent, you won’t find it difficult to get a bus from the bus station. You can also hire taxis, they will charge around 400-500 INR. I suggest you to take a bus instead of taxi so you can save some money.

If you like to explore a new place by walking, then you can walk up to Vilpatti village from Kodaikanal town. The road to Vilpatti is easy to walk.

Accommodation in Vilpatti

There are many cottages in and around the village of Vilpatti. A little search in the internet can help you to find the right type of stay you look for. During weekends and festival time, it is always better to book your accommodation in advance. There are few resorts which provide camping, trekking etc.

Things to do

There are not many things to do in Vilpatti. You can spend a day or two here simply roaming around the village, talk to people, eat from local restaurants, learn about the life of people.

You should not miss the sunsets and sunrise here. The evenings are beautiful. Nights will be cold, perfect to watch the stars.

So that’s all about this small village, hence a small blog post. I suggest you find some time to explore these villages if you are in Kodaikanal. It will be a different experience, and you will definitely like it.

Also, read about the trek to Vellagavi village, another small village perched on the Kodai hills.

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by jithin thomas - November 23, 2017January 14, 2021

Visit to Thiruvannamalai-Travel guide

My visit to Thiruvannamalai was completely unexpected. It’s been a long since I travelled alone. I travel with my friends most of the time nowadays. There was a comfort zone created around me which restricted me from many things. I needed to break that, to experience the joy of solo travel again. I was thinking such a journey for some days. But the initial hurdle to break out of my comforts pulls me back all the time. Overcoming that is pretty difficult. One side of our mind tells us to go but the other side wins most of the time. But this time I was determined.

In my opinion, it is the strong urge to get out of our comforts that make us a good traveller. We should have the mind to accept whatever comes in our path, take everything positively. Nobody travels for nothing, everyone needs something. And if what we are looking for is experiences and can be happy in our own company, then we should try travelling alone sometimes. I assure you, the difference it makes is amazing.

Coming back to my visit to Thiruvannamalai, I was in my room without any plans on a Friday evening. I was thinking what to do for the weekend, so many thoughts went through my mind. After some time, I took my bag and left my room to catch the bus to Thiruvannamalai. I had read about this place in the newspaper couple of days back. That was my first information about the place. Also did some search on google before going. Tiruvannamalai offered me more than I expected. A town with hundreds of temples, good people, saffron-clad sadhus, peaceful ashrams and the beautiful Arunachala hill which is visible from kilometres away.

How to reach Thiruvannamalai

The best way to reach Thiruvannamalai is by bus. Buses are available every 30 minutes from Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminal (CMBT), Koyambedu. The journey will take about 5 hours. I started my journey around 11.30 PM and reached Thiruvannamalai around 4 AM in the morning. Buses are also available from other major cities of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. There are frequent buses between Bangalore also.

Travelling in and around Thiruvannamalai

Once you reach Thiruvannamalai bus stand, the Arunachala temple is just 15 minutes walk from the bus stand.

Girivalam is a circuit around the Arunachala hill. You can hire bicycles or motorcycles to travel around. Or else, you can hire an autorickshaw, that will take you around the hill. They will stop at all the important temples. The auto rickshaw fare is 300 INR.

You will get bikes and bicycles for rent near Ramanashrmam.

Trekking Arunachala hill

When I asked the local people about trekking the Arunachala hill, the response was negative. They told that trekking is only possible during the “Karthikai Deepam” festival. I was little disappointed. The Arunachala hill looked very charming. Even though it is not a big mountain (800 meters), there were clouds on its top. It looked different and I fell in love at the first glance.

Trekking to the Arunachala hill was allowed earlier. But later it is prohibited due to forest fire caused by the sadhus burning wood for their rituals. There is a trekking route through the back entrance of the temple. But it is open only during the festival time. A giant flame is erected on the top of the hill during this time. Devotees hike the hill to be a part of this ritual. It is estimated that around 20 lakh people come to Tiruvannamalai during this time.

Later, I found out a way to trek to Arunachala hill by an alternate route which starts from the Ramanasramam. A sadhu informed me about this route. The trail leads to Skandasramam and Virupaksha cave. If you continue trekking up from Skandasramam, you can reach Arunachala hill. The trek will take about 30 minutes to reach Skandasramam ( the trail is clear and well paved) and another 2 hours from there to reach the top. There are markings throughout the trail, so don’t worry about losing the direction. You have to climb over the rocks to reach the top, so be prepared to put some effort. It is better to trek during the early hours of the day, it will be hot and you need to spend a lot of energy.

Things to do in Thiruvannamalai

Annamalaiyar temple

Annamalaiyar temple is the prime attraction of Thiruvannamalai. It is one of the most important Shiva temples in the world, visited by thousands daily. It is a major spiritual centre for Shiva devotees. You can see many sadhus walking around the streets and foreigners who come here to learn about eastern spirituality and philosophy.

The temple is built by Chola dynasty in the 9th century. It is one of the largest temples in the country.

The temple opens at around 5 AM. It was my first destination. The atmosphere in the temple at dawn was amazing. I spend some time inside, watching the sunrise. The Arunachala hill slowly appeared in front of me.

Girivalam

Girivalam is the 12 km circuit which goes around the Arunachala hill. Often the pilgrims circumnavigate the hill by foot. There are eight Shiva lingams en route, sacred for the devotees. A lot of Sadhus live around the hill. The route is scenic, gives a 360-degree view of the hill. You can hire an autorickshaw or a bicycle also to complete the circuit.

Sri Ramana Ashram

This ashram of Bhagwan Sri Ramana Maharshi is one of the most visited places in Thiruvannamalai. It is about 2 km from the Arunachala temple. Local buses are available from the bus stand or else you can hire an autorickshaw.

The atmosphere in the ashram is so peaceful. It is a centre of spiritual teaching and meditation. People from all around the world come here and stay for days to learn about the teachings of Sri Ramana Maharshi. You can meet and interact with many people from different parts of the world.

Skandasramam and Virupaksha cave

arunachala hill trekking — the trail to Skandhasramam

As I mentioned earlier, a small hike to the hill behind the ashram will take you to Skandasramam and Virupaksha cave. Shri Ramana Maharshi meditated in these two places for years. The hike is through the forest. The trail is clear with proper markings. The walk is refreshing. These two places are very sacred for the devotees. People come here to meditate. So you have to be little careful not to disturb others.

Accommodation in Thiruvannamalai

There are many lodges in and around the temple. You can also stay in Ramanashram. Contact the administrative office to check the availability of the room once you reach there or check their website in advance to book your accommodation.

Few things to know about the visit to Thiruvannamalai

Thiruvannamalai is a religious place. So don’t expect any kind of tourist attraction here.
The climate here is generally hot, so the best time to visit Thiruvannamalai is during winter months. The temperature will be good.
The main festival here is “ Karthikai Deepam”, an auspicious day in the Tamil month Karthigai ( often comes on a full moon day between November or December).
You can find a lot of Sadhus around asking for alms. So be a little wise in giving them money.
There are few restaurants and art shops run by foreigners in the town, do check them.
Gingee fort is around 39 km before Tiruvannamalai when coming from Chennai. You can plan for Gingee fort.

As I said earlier, I fell in love with the vibe of the place. The ashram and the trek Arunachala hill was my best experience there. A weekend is enough to explore the place. I would suggest, instead of going to the same weekend getaways all the time, try something different, visit this little temple town.

Read Kanchipuram: City of thousand temples” , another temple town in Tamil Nadu which is very close to Chennai.

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by jithin thomas - November 7, 2017January 14, 2021

Chokramudi peak trek in Munnar

As I started to explore more in the Western ghats nowadays, many new and interesting places are getting into my head daily. The trek to Chokramudi peak was on such that I read in a social media page for travellers very recently. As soon as I came to know about the place, my interest to go there began to grow. And felt like doing the trek before the end of this year monsoons. The Southwest monsoon usually ends by October but this year it was extending a little bit longer, so I had my time to trek to Chokramudi peak.

So on a weekend, I reached Kumily from Chennai. From there, started the journey to find Chokramudi with my friend. We only had a small idea about the location of the peak. We knew it was nearer to Munnar. From Kumily, drove through the villages of Idukki, also known as “high range”. We asked many people on the way about Chokramudi, we got mixed responses. Some never heard of it, some had only a small idea where it is. We met some people who knew about the peak as we reached nearer on the way to Munnar. From a village called Udumbanchola, we were asked to go to Bison valley.

When we reached Bison valley, there was a bit of confusion regarding the entry point to the trek. A couple of times, we took the wrong route and had to come back. So after a lot of enquires and search, got the exact location of Chokramudi peak from one person. He told us to go drive towards Munnar direction till the beginning of the “Gap road” and look for a cross on the left side once you pass the gap road.

Chokramudi_trek_munnar — the trail begins here

Finally, we found the cross and began our trek. Very soon it started to rain. Since we expected rain, we were all prepared for it. The initial hike is a normal climb, there are proper trails to lead us. After that, the hike is over the rocks until we reach the top of the first peak. Since it was raining, the rocks were very slippery. It was little difficult for us to climb, the fog began to come and very soon we were in the middle of the clouds.

The first peak we reach is called “ Kurisu mala”. From there Chokramudi is yet another stretch.

Chokramudi is one of the highest peaks in the Western Ghat region of Kerala. Sometimes, you can see the endangered“ Nilgiri Tahrs” here in the peak. Another speciality of Chokramudi peak is the “ Neelakurinji” as it is called in Malayalam. The scientific name is ‘Strobilanthes kunthianum’. The “Neelakurinji flower blooms once in 12 years, The mass blooming covers these mountains in entire blue. People from different part of the world come during this time to witness this phenomenon. The last mass blooming was in 2006 and this is the 12th year. All are eagerly waiting to witness the blooming this year. There are many places here in the hills of Munnar where you can go and see the Neelakurinji flowers. Nirmala city, a place near to Kattappana (Idukki district is one such place)

How to reach Chokramudi peak

Chokramudi is located between Bison valley and Munnar. If coming from Kumily, it is good to reach Bison valley via Udumbanchola and Rajakumari. Once you get nearer to Munnar, you find the entry to the “gap road” (connects Munnar and Salem), Chokramudi peak is nearby. You can find a cross on the roadside. Follow the trail behind and you are on the right track. The trail to the top is easy to find.

Few things about Chokramudi peak trek

Chokramudi peak trek is one of the best things to do in Munnar if you are looking for an offbeat experience. The trek is easy which can be completed in 2 hours.
Trek up to the first peak, anyone with normal health conditon can do the atleat upto the first Kurisumala.
Carry enough water (on your own water bottles). There are no shops nearby.
Nearest places are Munnar and Bison valley
There are many resorts and guest around Chokramudi peak. But if you are looking for an economic accommodation, it is better to try in Munnar.
Sunrises and sunsets are beautiful from the top. So plan your trek to Chokramudi not to miss either of them.
You have to be very careful if there is rain, the rocks are slippery. You won’t be able to get balance and it is dangerous. A good pair of shoes with proper grip will be good.
Sometimes there will be a restriction for vehicles coming from Munnar side because of the works going on in the “ Gap road”. In that case, you have to reach Bison valley to go to Chokramudi.

That’s all about Chokramudi. Go and explore the place. The views from the top are stunning. Avoid plastics in the mountain. Bring back whatever you have taken to the top. Have a good time in nature.

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Also read: A monsoon trek to Kodachadri peak

by jithin thomas - October 17, 2017January 14, 2021

The Nilgiri road trip: To Ooty via Masinagudi

This time, I am going to share a road trip idea in the Nilgiri mountains. If you have a long weekend or some holidays, just take your ride and come to the most beautiful hill station of South India, Ooty. This part of Western Ghats is called the Nilgiris (Blue mountains). There are many places to explore in these mountains. This Nilgiri road trip will definitely be a wonderful experience for you.

Why is this Nilgiri road trip?

I will tell you. Of course, Ooty is the biggest attraction of the Nilgiri mountain ranges. You might have already visited Ooty many times. So whenever someone suggests about Ooty, you may feel why again. The point is, the Nilgiris is not only Ooty. If you are a nature lover, who never get bored seeing beautiful misty mountains all around and wishes to stay in a peaceful location for few days, then there are many places here which are perfect for you. In my case, these mountains has not stopped to excite me even though I am a frequent visitor.

So for this road trip, you are heading to Ooty but not the usual route. You are taking some diversions on the way, drive through some less travelled routes and explore some offbeat places.

Check out the below roadmap, it tells you almost everything.

I picked up the road from Nilambur side, Kerala. The usual route to Ooty is from via Gudalur (50 km). But this time, I drove up to Theppekad, took the forest road to Masinagudi.

My route;

Nilambur(Kerala)-Gudalur-Theppakadu-Masinagudi- Ooty-Coonoor-Ooty- Gudalur- Nilambur

Gudalur

Gudalur is a major town in the Nilgiris, it is located near to Kerala- TamilNadu border. Since I came from the Kerala side, this was my first destination. Life in this region is mainly based on tea plantations. Vast stretches of tea plantations welcome you from both sides. The climate is cool here.

Theppakadu

Theppakadu is famous as the entry point to Mudumalai National park. The elephant camp in Theppakadu is a good place to visit on the way. Mudumalai National park is the other side of Bandipur National park in Karnataka.

If you are coming from Bangalore or Mysore, Theppakadu will be the first place to reach. From here, the road up to Masinagudi goes through the forest. It is very important to follow the rules inside the forest. You should not speed up or don’t stop anywhere on the way. There will be forest officers watching you, they may charge fine if you do something against the rules.

Masinagudi

The drive through the forest will take you to Masinagudi. It is a small village in the foothills of Nilgiris. An offbeat destination famous for jungle safaris and cottages. Many offroading events take place here usually.

From Masinagudi, Ooty is about 30 km. The most interesting part of our road trip is this stretch. From here, the road is called Kalhatty ghat road. The road is a 12 km steady steep climb with 36 hairpin bends and very curvy. This road is a challenge to the driver in you. Accidents are often, you have to be very careful. The views on both sides of the roads are stunning. Big vehicles usually avoid this road.

Ooty

I don’t think you don’t need to know much about Ooty from my side. During, festival season and weekends, it will be very crowded. You may find a bit difficult to even move your car on the roads. So don’t worry, we have alternate options, head to Coonoor.

Coonoor

Coonoor is about 21 km from Ooty, it is a small version of Ooty itself but much peaceful and serene.The world famous Nilgiri mountain heritage trains go parallel to the road. There are many old Victorian style bungalows which are now converted to hotels. You can find one and spend a night in one of those. There are many homestays and guest houses located at stunning locations. On the way, there are some amazing places like Ketti and Wellington which you should definitely visit.

I will suggest one beautiful place to visit here. Take the Dolphin nose road from Coonoor bus station and drive about 10 km. You will reach the Dolphin nose viewpoint. The road up to there is very scenic, you will find may other viewpoints and walkways on the way. From the Dolphin nose, you can see Catherine waterfall, which cascades down from a height of 250 m.

Coonoor is the best place to end your day. Pick up a nice place to sleep and enjoy the evening.

Few things to know before the Nilgiri road trip;

As shown in the map above, the route for the trip depends on from which side you are coming. You can plan according to that.
On the way back, you can take the other route and complete the circuit. Check the map shown above. For example, if you are coming from Coimbatore side; Coimbatore-Coonoor-Ooty-Gudalur-Theppakadu-Masinagudi-Ooty-Coimbatore
The Masinagudi to Ooty is a bit difficult stretch, you have to be careful while driving. If it is difficult to drive up, just come down from Ooty to Masinagudi, plan accordingly.
Masinagudi will be a different experience for you. There are many jungle resorts there, sometimes you can see some wildlife also. this region is dry throughout the year, but nights will be cold.
When you enter Masinagudi, people approach you to take a jungle jeep safari. I haven’t done that yet, but from what I knew, it is a waste of money. You are already driving through the national park from Theppakadu to Masinagudi.
Littering is strictly prohibited inside the forest.
Follow the rules while driving through Mudumalai national park.
Take a look at your fuel often, always better to fill enough fuel from Gudalur, Ooty or Coonoor. The availability of fuel station in Masinagudi is doubtful.
Accommodations are available in Gudalur, Masinagudi, Ooty and Coonoor

I highly suggest everyone to drive once through these scenic roads. Hope you got enough information to plan your Nilgiri road trip. If you need any further details, please let me know.

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by jithin thomas - October 10, 2017January 14, 2021

Seven days Spiti Valley itinerary

Spiti valley is the most trending destination now in India. It is attracting all the travellers from around the globe. You might have come across tonnes of photos of Spiti valley in Instagram. Am sure you have also thought about going there some time. A few months back, I travelled to Spiti valley with few of my friends. It was a 10 days trip for me in total including travel from the south of the country. I am gonna share with you how I spend my days there.This one week Spiti valley itinerary will be helpful for you to plan your journey.

Day 1: Journey starts from Manali

An overnight bus from Delhi brought us to Manali. The bus service to Kaza is a matter of doubt always, sometimes without any notice, they may cancel the service. But we were lucky, booked our tickets to Kaza for the next day. Spent that day in Manali simply walking all around. Manali was full of tourists.

The bus to Kaza starts at 5 in the morning. The travel itself was an experience. We were on the bus for the complete day. Travelled through one of the toughest and roughest roads. The views on both sides were amazing. Reached Kaza by 6 in the evening, our host Tandup was waiting there. We had a warm welcome, the family treated us with a lot of food which was much needed after the long journey.

Read: Manali to Kaza in bus

Day 2: Langza, Hikkim and Komic

The next morning, wake up to see one of the best morning ever. The mountains were beautiful in the first light of the day. Our host Tandup gave us an idea about the places here. He suggested us to pick the direction towards Langza, Hikkim and Komic that day.

Langza is a small scenic village about 18 km from Kaza at an altitude of 14500 feet. A big statue of Buddha overlooks the entire valley, which is said to be thousand years old. When we get down at Langza, kids and woman come around with pieces of rocks hiding in their palms. They are fossils which are found in these mountains. Before buying them, consider first that possession of fossils is illegal in India and you may find it difficult to carry through the airport.

Hikkim is the next village ahead, about 9 km from Langza. The postmaster from the highest post office in the world will be waiting for you with a bunch of Spiti postcards, ready to paste the stamp and put it in the post box. He lives in the next room with his family. He has a lot of stories to tell, but you have to make him talk.

Our next village, Komic is one of the highest villages in the valley. Very few people live here. There is a very old monastery here. The monastery and temple are of great importance in the Buddhist beliefs of this valley.

There is no public transport available up to Komic. Either you should catch any vehicle going in this direction or else hire a taxi. Trekking is also possible. Many of the families are allowing travellers to stay at their houses in every village. It will be a good experience to understand the life here. You will also get accommodation at the monastery in Komic.

Day 3: Key, Kibber and Tashigang

The next day, we picked up another direction towards Kibber. The Key monastery in on the way, in a picturesque location.The monastery is visible from a long distance, it looks stunning. It is one of the famous monasteries in the valley. Rooms are available in the Key monastery also. Kibber is a bigger village, it is comparatively touristy, you can find many homestays and restaurants. Bus service is available from Kaza up to Kibber every morning.

But our destination was Tashigang, the highest village in the valley. Only three families live here. Our taxi driver was from Tashigang and dropped us there. We stayed in one of the houses for the night. They were very nice people, told us how the life here is, especially during winters where there will be 5-6 foot thick snow. Only very few travellers come up to Tashigang and stay here. It will be very cold at night here. The oxygen is little less, you may feel little uncomfortable.

Read: Tashigang, the highest village in Spiti valley

Day 4: In and around Kaza

We came back from Tashigang and spent that day in Kaza. Walked around the biggest settlement in the valley. It is divided into two, Kaza 1 and 2. Kaza 2 has a modern outlook with newly constructed buildings. The town was busy with markets, shops and restaurants. People from all the other villages in the valley depends on Kaza for offices, hospitals, schools etc. Kaza is the centre for transportation also. Government buses and private taxis are available from here to most of the villages.

Day 5: Dhankar

Visited Dhankar next day.It is about 30 km from Kaza towards the Shimla side. A big village, beautiful and much greener. It was earlier the capital of the Kingdom who ruled the valley. There is a fort on the top of the hill and a very old monastery. The monastery is at the edge of collapse. From the top of the fort, we will get the best views of both Pin river and Spiti river joining together.

There is a lake little higher on the mountains, it is a 2-hour trek to reach the lake. So if you have enough time, definitely trek up to the Dhankar lake.

We had to come back to Kaza that day itself, because next day morning, we start early for Chandratal lake. Shared taxis are available to drop either in Batal or Kunzum pass top. If you go and check with the taxi driver union office, you can easily find people looking for others to share their ride.

Day 6: Trek to Chandratal

Started early morning from Kaza. It took us around 3 hours to reach Kunzum pass top. Started the trek to Chandratal lake, the terrain was pretty hard but the views were amazing. After a long 5 hours walk, reached Chandratal by evening.

Nights in Chandratal are colder than Kaza. Tents are available in the camping site, 2 km before the lake. Don’t miss to see the milky way at night. It is stunning from there.

Read: Kunzum pass to Chandratal lake trek

Day 7: Back to Manali

The next morning, woke up very early. We had to catch the bus to Manali. The night before, we asked everyone in the campsite for a vehicle to drop us to Batal, 14 km from Chandratal. But the response was negative. So we had to walk all the way. The bus from Kaza will reach Batal by around 8.30 morning. It was little tough to cover 14 km in 3 hours with our backpacks but somehow made it with the help of some good souls we met on the road.

The bus came around 9 AM and then back to Manali.

The most known destinations in the Himalayas like Manali, Kasol etc.. are getting more crowded these days. These places have lost their charm. So people started to look for more offbeat experiences. Spiti valley became the hotspot for travellers very recently. Spiti is peaceful now, it is unique and we have a lot to experience here. But as this place is getting busy with tourists, it is changing gradually. Life is changing, new buildings, more vehicles, more plastics and more pollution. Pollution of water is a serious issue now. The Spiti river had become a dumping ground for the garbage from hotels. The people who live here are affected worse by the growth of commercialised tourism.

As travellers, we have a responsibility towards this heavenly place. There are many initiatives to promote responsible tourism in the valley. Many organisations are working for this cause. Be a part of it, you can do a lot. Explore Spiti, experience what it has to offer, watch those stunning night skies and hear as many stories from the most friendly people. Respect them and keep this beautiful valley as it is.

Keep travelling…

Hope that this Spiti valley itinerary will be helpful for you.

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by jithin thomas - October 4, 2017January 14, 2021

A monsoon trek to Kodachadri peak

The monsoons were pouring down heavily in the southern states this time. The South West monsoon usually retreats by the end of September. I was looking forward to a trek in the rain before it ends. The monsoon in the Western Ghats is something I like the most, the rain is so refreshing and liberating. It didn’t take much time to decide a trek to Kodachadri hills. I started my journey, along with a friend from Chennai in an afternoon train towards Banglore where I had booked an overnight bus to Kudachadri.

I have to get down at a place called Nittur. The trek to Kodachadri starts from here. It was a drizzling morning. The raindrops were soft like snow. It kept on falling as it ever exists, disturbing no one. Nittur is a small village between Shimoga and Kollur. Got a guide immediately. Trekking on our own was the plan but from Nittur, people told it will be a bit difficult to find the trails. Our guide was a nice person, ran immediately to his house to take an umbrella and he was ready to go. We bought some sniffing powder to prevent leeches, as per our guide’s instruction and started our trek to Kodachadri peak.

We took a small trail from the main road and began walking. There were houses on both sides, paddy fields, streams running all around them. It began to rain little later, our guide unfolded his umbrella and walked in front. I followed him, embraced by the rain.

After a while, our trail merged with the road that goes to Kodachadri. For a short distance, we have to walk by the road. Our guide started to talk, about the trek and different trails, then his stories. He told about a group who got lost in the forest during the trek to Kodachadri peak a few years back. There is an area in the forest, finding the correct trail is very difficult once we go inside, he told. He was one among those who went to search a group who were lost in the forest. I felt little difficult to believe his story completely, but I didn’t want to show the doubts on my face. He lead us very confidently as a person who knows these mountains very well.

The walk continued for about an hour, came across many small villages. The road was unpaved. We gradually entered into the forest. Leeches started to crawl on my legs. It was little scary in the beginning but later became used to it. The sneezing powder was effective. Most of us are a bit scared about leeches, one of the reasons why we are little hesitant to go into forests or trek in rain. But I felt they are much harmless compared to the mosquitoes, which we are ready to tolerate in the cities.

We reached a small house, Hidlumane ( “mane” in Kannada means house). Two forest officers were sitting there, gave us the permission to enter the forest after paying an entry fee. We joined some other groups from there. From Hidlumane, the trek continued towards Hidlumane falls. We were walking through the forest, the trails were little slippery. Our guide led us to the waterfalls, more leeches on my legs. Before Hidlumane falls, there are other two waterfalls. They don’t have any names it seems, but they looked pretty with full water after the heavy monsoon rains.

From the waterfall, the trek is a steep climb through the forest. It rained heavily, hornbills welcomed the rain from the biggest trees. The streams were full. Water dripping from the trees made the sound of the forest more enchanting. During the rains, the forest has a different shade of green. It looked fresh everywhere. Whenever the rain stops for a while, the fog starts to crawl up between the trees to the hills. The forests gave way to grasslands as we climbed higher.

Once again, we met the road, which soon ended in front of a temple. A trail goes to the top of the Kodachadri hills by the side of the temple. There were many jeeps waiting for the those who went up to the top. Our guide took us to the government guest house. The caretaker of the guest house informed that we had to wait till 4.30 evening to get confirmation about the rooms. He assured us a place to sleep anyway. The guest house was a bit spooky. It was not that much well maintained. Water leaked through the roof at some places. The window panes broken, walls turned green with the moist. The air was damp inside but we found little warmth in a corner.

The rain showed no interest to cease. The fog made it hard to see anything, so we decided to wait. People began to leave, it was evening then and started to get dark. There were only a few people staying in the guest house for the night.

kodachadri guest house — the guest house

The next day morning was calm, the rain stopped finally. As soon as I woke up, went outside to see the sunrise. Trekked to the top of the Kodachadri peak. It was fog everywhere, couldn’t see the sunrise but a beautiful morning.

When I was about to come back from the top, met the group who stayed with us in the guest house. They were hiking to Chitramoola, a cave temple located on the other side. It is believed that the sage Sri Shankaracharya meditated in this cave for about one year. I joined them. It was a trek down to the opposite side of the hill. We entered a thick forest, the trail was very steep. Leeches were very happy to see some people at their place finally. Walked down for about 30 minutes and heard sounds of a waterfall nearby. We followed the sound, the cave was behind the falls.

Sitting inside the cave, in front of the Shiva Linga, my thoughts went back to the time when Shankaracharya meditated here in the middle of the jungle alone.

Trek to Kodachadri hills: Few things to know

There are three main trekking routes to reach Kodachadri. The trek to Kodachadri from Nittur is a 10 km trail and a moderate one.
Camping is not allowed in Kodachadri.
Nittur is a small town on the way to Kollur. You can get down at Nittur if coming from Banglore.
You will easily get guides from Nittur itself, they will approach immediately when you get down there. They normally charge INR 600.
It is better to carry something to prevent leeches. Tobacco and salt are very effective. The sneezing powder also works well. I have seen some spraying Volini to remove leeches (but it kills them).
Carry enough water and some food, you won’t find any shops on the way.
It is better to carry some plastic bags to keep your phone and other electronics, especially during rain time.
I advise to carry a small bag, the trek is very steep and it will be difficult with a heavy bag.
Though it is a moderate trek, the trails will become slippery during rain and trekking will be difficult.
Once you reach the end of the road in Kodachadri, you can find the government guest house nearby
You won’t find it difficult to get a room but sometimes there will be advance booking. You can book the guest house in advance from Hosanagara. If not booked, you have to wait till evening.
You may find the guest house little uncomfortable. It is the best option for accommodation if you can adjust for a night. And an experience too.
The guest house will provide food also.
You will also get accommodation in the temple priest’s house with simple food
On top of Kodachadri, there are many trails. Each towards different places where you can get the best view of sunset and sunrise.
The trail to Chitramoola can be found behind the Shankaracharya temple at the top. It is a steep trail and a little tricky. Only a few people opt for the trek to Chitramoola.
To reach back to Nittur, you can take the same trail or walk the jeep route or can take any jeep going back. They will charge about INR 250 per person to drop in Nittur. The ride in jeep is an adventure.
Taxis are available from Nittur if you don’t prefer the trek to Kodachadri. Also, you can take taxi up to Hidlumane and continue the trek from there.
Local buses are available from Nittur towards Kollur. Kollur is a well-known temple town. Karnataka government and private bus companies have services from Kollur to most of the cities like Bangalore, Mangalore, Chennai etc.

Hope you got enough information about the trek to Kodachadri hills. Make time to continue the trek to Chitramoola. I didn’t write much about Chitramoola, that was intentional. Felt it is unfair to spoil the thrill of your experience.

Please join together to keep our trails clean and protect the nature. Be a little conscious not to put anything like plastic bags, snack covers or papers on the trails.

Read about another beautiful trek to Baba Budangiri in Chikmagalur, Karnataka.

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Check some more stories from the Western Ghats.

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